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Discuss Retro fit ufh & Hydrogen gas causes floor failure. in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

O

Old Mod

So Gary and I have come down to Hastings to inspect a large Porcel-thin floor that is failing.
On seeing the floor for the first time it appears to be laid with care and the fitter, (builders son) appears to have done a half decent job.
But there are issues, a few have cracked and some tiles when walked on, crunch underfoot.
The main areas effected are the high traffic areas in the kitchen diner, so in through the main door from outside, the wc next to it and the main walkway from the kitchen area to the rest of the house. The dining area and utility remain mainly unaffected it seems.
So like all failing areas, investigative work has to be done, i.e. Tiles have to be lifted.
Problem number 1. Retro ufh is directly under the tile.
2. No antifracture or decoupler used.
3. Locating the pipe work.

The ufh system in question is Wundafloor, eps boards (polystyrene) covered with aluminium spreaders.

First thing to overcome was locating ufh pipes so we can safely cut away joints and remove tiles.
Solution, thermal imaging camera.

IMG_5417.JPG


Pipes located without too much problem.
Then we needed a way of cutting the joints open to free the tile from the rest of the field so that when we chop it out, it doesn't effect the tiles around it.
It seems we found a new use for the sigma Kerra Cut! :)

Securing the guide rail to the floor we used it as a fence to run a grinder, with a variable depth shroud on it to cut away the joints.
The blade was set for the exact thickness of the tile.

IMG_0132.JPG IMG_0171.JPG

What we found beneath was a floor with around 65-70% coverage at best, and poor troweling technique.

IMG_0133.JPG

But most disturbing of all was the adhesive had very little strength and was soft and easily scraped from the floor.
The tiles were stuck to it, no doubt about that, but there was just no strength in the adhesive at all, we could crush it between our fingers.
The floor has been down for 9 months, more than enough time to cure completely.
The recommended adhesive is Mapei Kerabond T & Mapei Isolastic stuck direct to the aluminium.
No priming required.
The adhesive used, Ultra S2 single part adhesive.
Priming was required if this adhesive was to be used, unfortunately, it wasn't.
So in normal circumstances you might think that you'd have a half decent chance of the the floor being ok even tho you didn't prime.
Thing is, when aluminium comes into contact with Portland cement, a chemical reaction takes place, this chemical reaction creates hydrogen gas!
What does this mean?
Well in the first instance the adhesive is filled with bubbles of Hydrogen gas, which in turn causes the adhesive to expand considerably causing tension in the floor. Secondary to that, it also causes the aluminium to corrode.
So what you are left with is a floor where the adhesive is literally on the edge of catastrophic failure.

IMG_0215.JPG IMG_0216.JPG

I have some better examples on site I'll post tomorrow.
But as you can see, it looks like overwatered adhesive, but in fact it's cavities caused by hydrogen gas. Causing the adhesive to be almost useless.
We scraped it away from the floor with a bolster by hand!
We are attempting to make repairs to the worse effected areas, but it's a 50/50 chance at best.

So remember, DO YOUR RESEARCH!
All of this could of been avoided if someone had called the relevant tech departments. And all for the sake of a few quid for primer!!

I'll go in to our remedy techniques tomorrow,
I'm too tired right now.
 

Ajax123

TF
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there's very little that they claim that can't do.
use it to prime resin backed stone, painted epoxy floors, gypsum
its a wonder product
I'm going to refrain from comment in respect of my opinion of Mapei
 

Ajax123

TF
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In the case of using the Isolastic liquid, does it bind the alkali element of the Portland Alan, how does it work?
Mapei also state that latex plus is a no no,
reading tech sheets there's little or no difference in the two products, but I'm sure there must be something.
Would just like to understand how this can be prevented.
Not sure it binds the alkali element but some latex compounds have resistance to alkaline conditions. Styrene butadiene is used to make latex concretes which have high flexural strength. I don't know what the mapei stuff is made from so not sure. I know it's a type of latex so maybe it's the butaduene form.
 
O

Old Mod

Not sure it binds the alkali element but some latex compounds have resistance to alkaline conditions. Styrene butadiene is used to make latex concretes which have high flexural strength. I don't know what the mapei stuff is made from so not sure. I know it's a type of latex so maybe it's the butaduene form.
Thanks Alan.
I will call Mapei again, but don't hold out much hope of finding out the why's and the wherefore'a, I'm sure I'll just be told 'it just does!' Haha
Thanks again
 

Ajax123

TF
Esteemed
Arms
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1,213
Lincolnshire
Bitumen would work yes but a nightmare to apply. I think mma would work as well but would be fearfully expensive and fiddly to work with. Never tried SBR but as that can suffer from alkali burn I suspect that won't work. Acrylic doesn't work. PVA works in large quantities but can take an age to dry and set. Epoxy would probably work but again would be fiddly and costly. A polythene membrane is best for screeds.
 
O

Old Mod

Bitumen would work yes but a nightmare to apply. I think mma would work as well but would be fearfully expensive and fiddly to work with. Never tried SBR but as that can suffer from alkali burn I suspect that won't work. Acrylic doesn't work. PVA works in large quantities but can take an age to dry and set. Epoxy would probably work but again would be fiddly and costly. A polythene membrane is best for screeds.


Would you have any guess as to why they say prime and grip works?
 

Ajax123

TF
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Lincolnshire
I thought you pretty much said cement or anhydrate it going to fail and that priming as a blanker is that good . So if you said that I stand by what I say if I misunderstood you tell me .
No I misunderstood your post. Who has bought products to market without testing?
 

Ajax123

TF
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Would you have any guess as to why they say prime and grip works?
I'm afraid not. I don't know why they say a lot of things sometimes. Also to be fair I don't know what it's made of. I suppose it's possibly a numbers game. Put enough if anything on and it'll work. The amount youd need though is just impractical. If it's an acrylic it's a risk.
 
O

Old Mod

So your saying they tested it but it's still going to fail
I hope you've quoted the wrong post! :p

Everything Alan has said I agree with, I've researched this to death over the last week and I have found nothing that would make me conclude a different outcome to what has been said.
He didn't say it was going to fail, he said he didn't know the chemical composition of prime and grip and therefore couldn't comment.
And what he said about acrylic primer not being reliable, is also true.
I've read that myself in the concrete journal.
The only ones that can answer that are Mapei, that don't mean they'll tell me tho.
This is a low end product with a very highly strung installation technique.
Appears to be have been devolved with another market in mind originally, and they've tried to adapt it for tiling.
If you pick a hundred tilers that are not on a forum, how many do you think will have a successful install with this product?
How many will even bother with the installation manual?
This stuff is an accident waiting to happen.
But that's only MY opinion.

Alan has practical experience, and that's why I was hoping he may of been able to answer my questions.
we all know in the real world, that experience far exceeds the knowledge gained from reading alone.
 

Ajax123

TF
Esteemed
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Lincolnshire
So your saying they tested it but it's still going to fail
that's what I'm getting at. Who is supposed to have tested what?? which manufacturers and which products?? don't get me wrong I'm not having a go or trying to pick an argument. Just trying to work out what you are actually asking/saying
 
D

Dumbo

that's what I'm getting at. Who is supposed to have tested what?? which manufacturers and which products?? don't get me wrong I'm not having a go or trying to pick an argument. Just trying to work out what you are actually asking/saying
Sorry I just don't get it . I thought you saying with your chemistry knowledge that even following their recommendations it was still going produce gas and ultimately fail . I therefore misunderstood what you were saying .
 

GAZ5518

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WOW!... Great post.. But trust me .. I will be giving these situations ( jobs) a wide berth..jeeees..what is happening to our lovely trade!!
So much prefer the old days... ( coming from an old fart)!!lol..
You guys that deal with these specialised jobs should most definitely charge more.. IMPO..:)
 

Ajax123

TF
Esteemed
Arms
931
1,213
Lincolnshire
This product is liquid,we use just for fit ditra-mat,is like the glue for vinilin.
Looks like we have a winner. Can't see any reason that would not stick. Not sure a primer would be needed but I'd be guided by Ardex on that
 

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