Mosaic fitting advice - "dogtooth" confusion

[Flintstone]

I would strongly recommend using beva mosaic mesh

 

[Chalker]

Let it dry, then use a 3mm float.
You won't save any time, as any saved will be used cleaning the adhesive out of the joints.

 

[dean jones]

I do appreciate all the input from everyone - pros and partimers alike, and am very grateful for any advice I can get. Unfortunately, my skill levels for tiling are no where near as high as software engineering, so I often choose a method I'd be capable of, rather than the correct, tried and tested professional one. I've taken both suggestions on board and will most likely attempt both at the weekend. The "good pat in" and the bringing it just short of level and then 3mm trowel for larger sections. Better do that tonight, so it will be well dried in time for the weekend.

Localtiler - I did consider beva mesh, but I was wary about how it would work out. Doesn't it reduce the actual bonding area at the back of the mosaic, as the mesh will be another barrier between mosaic and adhesive. I figured it would be better to have 100% contact with the back of the mosaic, rather than 70 odd with mesh. Mesh would be more useful to me to fill in all the gaps left from getting the brickbond pattern to come in line - all those cuts and getting them in line!!!
I also need to consider the daunting challenge of grouting it all afterwards - all those grout lines - I predict nighmares!!

 

[Andy Allen]

You fix the mesh to the back of the mosaic the spread a layer of adhesive over it to fill in the voids.....they do work .

 

[dean jones]

I thought you just peel off the mesh cover paper and stick the mosaic to it. Then spread adhesive over the wall as in normal tiling and push the dry mosaic mesh onto it. Do you spread the adhesive over the mesh with mosaic on it and then push it onto a wall with no adhesive on it?
Also, any useful tips on grouting? as there are a lot more lines and smaller, more closely packed then a field tile. The pushing grout in using a float should be straightforward, but I imagine the wiping with sponge is a bid fiddly and needs good technique and experience. I'll be using BAL micoflex (wiping after 15min according to packet) as I have done previously, but only on normal tiles not mosaics (first time.)

 

[Andy Allen]

No. ...spread the adhesive flat on the mesh to fill the voids and spread the wall with a notched trowel and stick them on.
Just grout as you would any other tile if it's glass mosaic you may need to leave it longer to firm up.

 

[Flintstone]

Grouting mosaic is very easy unless there big pebble type.

 

[dean jones]

Most instructions and videos just apply the mesh straight onto adhesive wall, not to mesh and wall. So your method is:
Self adhesive mesh onto back of mosaic.
Tile adhesive onto back of the mesh/mosaic (let it dry or fix whilst still wet?)
Adhesive on wall and then fix mesh/mosaic

I suppose the tricky bit is getting depth correct as now you have wall adhesive and adhesive with mesh and mosaic together.

Grouting - I do have glass amongst my mosaic, so I shall leave it on longer before wiping. Normally micromax is 15min, so will leave it for 20min.

 

[Flintstone]

Mix the grout a little stiffer, and just feel at it, when it feels right, wash it off.
The mosaic fitting isn't all that technical, your skimming up the back of the mosaic with the mesh on to ensure the adhesive reaches the tile it's self. There main purpose it to stop the mosaic from being floppy and moving around

 

[Martyn Leeds]

No doubt there will be a very good local tiler in the area, maybe even struggling to fill his diary up. Might've been a perfect job for him, and everyone involved, perhaps.