New DIY tiler introduction Screed issues - Tile Advice

[Deleted member 51481]

So the cogs have been whirring....as much as I would like to use the wedge boards, they are cost prohibitive. So would staggering the boards down in 2mm increments work instead?

 

[Deleted member 51481]

Hello, is my idea the sign of a madman or not please. If it is acceptable then I assume i 'gradulise' 2mm increments with SLC

 

[Old Mod]

Yes what you’re suggesting is possible, bearing in mind the more layers you use, the room for error increases, so be fastidious when fixing boards.
Wipe any dust away, priming them would help.
Do not allow boards to align, brick bond them, and tape all the joints with a wide scrim and flatten with tile adhesive.
Using latex to feather them is possible, but it is designed to flow, so it would have to be a thicker mix, or use rapid setting tile adhesive.
Use standard set when laying floor, and prime the boards and any latex or tile adhesive you’ve previously applied.
You could use a PTB adhesive instead of feathering the boards, (pourable thick bed) this would allow you to still achieve a full bed because it would take up any voids.
However these are invariably rapid setting adhesives, they’re messy and quite difficult to use.
You should only mix small amounts if taking this route, otherwise you’ll throw away more than you use.

The task you are taking on is really quite difficult, even some experienced fitters would struggle to achieve good results.
It’ll take time and patience when laying the floor.
I’d suggest starting at the point of lowest clearance at the bi-folds, and working back to the highest.
Coming up from a low point is far easier than the other way around.
In an ideal world you’d have a straight edge long enough to reach from the old floor to the doors, as this is some 5 metres, it won’t be possible, so you should at least use a sting line, this way you can be sure of an even gradient as the floor falls toward the doors.
You will also need an expansion joint between old and new floors to allow for lateral movement.
Put a tile joint on the expansion joint and fill with a colourmatch silicone to match the grout.

How old is the slab, has it been moisture tested?

You’re a brave man.
Good luck.

 

[Waluigi]

Are you doing this work in your own home or for a paying customer?

 

[Old Mod]

Are you doing this work in your own home or for a paying customer?

His home as far as I can tell.

 

[Deleted member 51481]

Correct. Should I cut my loss and go for a a screed. I'm just worried that they won't get the fall right 30mm > 5mm

 

[Waluigi]

I think you need a professional to come over to take a look and get a price.

 

[Old Mod]

A regular screed wouldn’t work, you don’t have enough depth.
Even a Ronafix Screed only goes down to 15mm.

Maybe call them and see if they have a solution.


Ronacrete | Ronafix for Screeds - https://www.ronacrete.co.uk/product/ronafix-for-screeds/

 

[Deleted member 51481]

I have a quote from UKScreeds LTD - £1020 inc VAT - to supply and lay 30sqm of low laitance Anhydrite Liquid Screed. They have advised they can create the fall I need but only to a minimum depth of 15mm so i would have to live with a 10mm step on the bifold door cill which is not the end of the world. What do you think of this quote thought - the company looks very reputable?

 

[Spare Tool]

Personally I wouldn't want a lip on the patio doors, you'll look at it everytime you come through the door knowing it didn't really have to be there.. You could do with getting a tiler round that knows how to prep this properly even if you tile it yourself

 

[Old Mod]

To eliminate the lip put a baton on the existing screed at the point they would need to stop to allow the last piece to be ramped to the threshold with adhesive.
If 15mm is their limit, (same as Ronafix) set a string line from the top of the existing screed to the bottom of the threshold at the low point.
Then measure the height of the string line back toward the screed to the point it measures 15mm off the new screed. That’s the point you fix a baton to the new screed for them to follow.
Hope that makes sense.

£34m2 is not actually that bad In my opinion.
By the time you take in to account materials, boards etc, and labour, plus the fact it should leave you a perfect ramped surface, I think it’s competitive.

 

[Deleted member 51481]

Thanks 3 Fall, I could do with a diagram if you can spare a minute or two as I'm struggling to visualise your solution.

Thanks for the reassurance on the price too. What is the going rate for tiling per sq m on a job like this assuming the screed is already down please?

 

[Old Mod]

Unfortunately we can’t discuss Tiling rates in an open forum, it creates too many issues, mainly because of regional price variations.
Let’s say someone in London see a job in Scotland for £5m2, believe me when I say there will be those who will expect the same rate no matter where they live. That’s just one of the reasons it’s not discussed publically.
The cost of your works will be worth whatever feels comfortable to you.
You should get more than one quote if you have no connections to the industry, no matter how tenuous, and make sure you check their work, either by a site visit or portfolio, which ever you are at ease with.
I’m always happy for a potential client to visit me on site, and have done it numerous times.
Ask to speak to previous clients of theirs.
Don’t be embarrassed to ask, if he’s reputable, he will gladly put you in touch.
If he gets aggressive and defensive, I’d move on.
It’s your money and you will have invested a great deal when it’s all complete, protect it.
Ask him to provide a method statement with his quote, a detailed plan of action if you will, and if you’re unsure swing by here and we can assess his method statement, but not his price.
That’s between you.

See what I can do about diagram.

 

[Old Mod]

It’s crude but hopefully tells you enough.

 

[Old Mod]

I certainly don’t profess to know all about anhydride screeds, but generally we know them to be a liquid screed which, when laid correctly, give a perfectly flat and level substrate.
So I for one, would be very interested to know how they deal with creating a fall.
So if there’s any chance of a few images of them carrying out the process, it’d be great if you could post them in here.

You mention it’s low laitance screed, this laitance will have to be removed at some point, ask if they return to carry out the process, a lot of companies provide this within their service. (It has to be sanded off)

Also, the prep for Tiling anhydride screeds is very specific, if you go ahead, come back and ask first before attempting to tile it.