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How best to Tile a room?

Discuss How best to Tile a room? in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

M

mp3wizard

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O

Old Mod

Your first set of images when you first latex'd the roller marks were visible.
You either waited to long or you over used it.
Use roller immediately and don't return to that area, only along edges of the join. As soon as the latex starts to go, the roller will pull it out if you keep going over same spot.
This is why it was suggested earlier that you have everything ready to go, even the buckets of water. There's no down time, it's full speed from min you mix first bucket.
 
M

mp3wizard

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Wasn't the best day but it is better, so we used up all of the 10 bags, ran out, spiked roller was seized so troweled it, there are some ridges but at most they are a few mm, so another 10 bags turning up today, I will use the spirit level to push a little bit in centre, doesn't look great but the cables are fully covered and it's pretty level apart from a slight ridge which I hope to sort out today.
 
M

mp3wizard

Yep the cost has certainly spiralled out of control, I accept that what I've saved on labour I've paid out on buying additional bags, to get an adequate coating I and think everyone massively underestimated the bags that I needed, (bought 5, then another 3, then another 5, then another 10, and another 10 turning up today) so 33 bags, I'd say if I chisled out the cable and had a lower starting point, I could of probably got away with 20-25 bags. so yep you were entirely right, should of got someone in to do the slc. I guesed I undercleaned the spiked roller, hence it not being able to spin properly.

The bifolds are fully operational as they open outwards, from inside it'll look ok, from outside it'll look ok, but If I have the doors open and am looking into the house i'll be able to see a raised floor level, maybe a decorative tile on the side, once I've removed the foam strip.

I fully anticipated a bit of a backlash from how the SLC has gone and was reluctant to upload, but the thread will hopefully help people in the future to avoid some of the mistakes I've made.

The main thing for me is just getting it level now to tile on, so hopefully it will be by end of play tomorrow.
 
T

Time's Ran Out

Listen the only reason we have put the comments on is because that's what the forum is about. A few comments have been unhelpful but as it's panning out some of the early replies are proven correct. As you've made it clear you were always going to do it yourself, the thread progresses and hopefully further posts will prove helpful to you. We are only on 21 pages and 345 replies so it's certainly an epic which I have no doubt will provide an insight into the issues which you have faced and how you've overcome adversity.
Keep posting, keep reading and keep going.
 
M

mp3wizard

I used the orbital sander to get some of the ridges down, so I've done some layouts of tiles to get an idea of the best possible layout, and I've sketched my plan attached, 2 walls are different by half an inch, so I'm planning to take half an inch from the edge of the bottom right tile, for the grout lines to be in the same position all the way along, I plan to not do the radiator tiles, as i'll need a plumber in to remove the radiator and then I can drill threw the tile part. I've also not planned the kitchen or bathroom as I'm guessing that they will lead on from the grout lines in the main room.

I also put down a few tiles dry to practice using the levelling system, the tiles are perfectly level, but the wedges felt like they couldn't go any further, is that correct or was I not forceful enough?

I've got 5 bags of flexible adhesive which are rapid set, I should get a delivery tomorrow of another 15 which are slow set, so maybe I can use the rapid set at the end if I'm feeling confident enough.

I've read threw this thread religiously so I think I am set, but if there are any comments on my plan or better ways of doing it I'm all ears.
 

John Benton

TF
Arms
2,211
1,138
Leeds
It would work if the bi-fold wall and kitchen walls are at 90 degrees. If they run out then you will end up either cutting a little bit of each tile or trying to fill a gap. Run a chalk line at 90 degrees to the doors and then measure to the kitchen wall all the way along and see how far out it runs. You may have to cut say 40mm off the r/h side of the tile to allow for any discrepancy in the wall, and that amount wouldn't be noticeable to the eye.
 

John Benton

TF
Arms
2,211
1,138
Leeds
Well, this is a new one on me, not working from a centre point ?? Not working so it's visually pleasing to the eye ?
I know lets just put a cut where im putting the settee, be reet that .

You're right Craig it would look better centralised and as you walk into that room then it would be symmetrical, and that would be my personal preference.
 
O

Old Mod

See now I don't agree. :D
I'm not talking about this job in particular, I'm talking generally. A room doesn't always look best centred imo. A room looks best with the overall effect being pleasing, and if that means hiding a cut under a sofa, then so be it.
I'm not saying this is the best set out for this room, but I can see the merit of looking from the main door or hallway and seeing 3 full tiles across the opening and down into the family room.
I feel that a room of this size is difficult to see as a whole once you're in it, you can't actually see it all within your field of view.
So does centralising it really matter?
Surely you want impact?
So as you enter a property and look through you want to see it for its best, cos once you're in the room it's too big to take it in all at once.
So in some instances I'd be happy to put a smaller cut where it'll be covered with furniture if the rest gave a better effect. But that's just me. :)
 

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