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Discuss How best to Tile a room? in the DIY Tiling Forum area at

  1. mp3wizard

    mp3wizard Active Member

    bristol uk
    Hi All,

    I've just had an extension done and I'm wondering how best to tile the room, I am a novice and haven't tiled before, as if that wasn't hard enough, I am also fitting underfloor heating and dealing with 800mm by 800mm floor tiles.

    From the attached picture I am looking to tile the red lined areas, I haven’t got any kitchen or bathroom fitted so the floor is completely free for tiling, the only obstacle in my way is the soil pipe in bathroom and a few radiator pipes, I was intending to mark the size of soil pipe on the tile and use an angle grinder to cut the shape out on the tile, would you agree this is the best method? And for the radiators to cut out a square piece and cut the remainder of the small piece of tile to put behind the pipe and use a filler for any gaps?

    From the research I have done, a lot of people advise to start from the centre of the room, but because the living room, kitchen, bathroom will all be the same tile and I want it to flow and I wonder if starting from the centre of the living room is really the best idea?

    I have been told that it would be a good ideal to use a levelling compound or levelling boards, for the underfloor heating, but It’s a new wood floor fitted with big wooden sheets, which is quite level and underneath that is 100mm in insulation boards, so my plan was to coat the floor in some heatflex which is a primer used to stop heat escape for underfloor heating, then the underfloor heating mats, and then the mapei adhesive recommended for the tile, then the tile and grout as normal.

    The tools I’ve got for the job are;

    Electric Wet cutter, dry cutter (800mm wide), mixing trowel, 6mm notched trowel, plastic scraper for grout, grout float, 2 mixing buckets, sprit level, 3mm tile spacers, suction grabber, 4 hard sponges, heatflex primer, adhesvies and grout, tape measure, square edge.

    I’d appreciate any input as I’d like a good finish and if there are any additional tools that you think I might need.

    Thanks a lot.


  2. Simons70

    Simons70 Professional Tiler

    ''I am a novice and haven't tiled before''
    Underfloor heating,800 x 800 mm tiles,big area,diagonal,all this details make the difference between professional tilers and the DIY.
    This project is definitely not for DIY,best think to do is find a professional tiler!
    • Like Like x 11
  3. mp3wizard

    mp3wizard Active Member

    bristol uk
    The Diagnal lines were just to show the area, I want to tile it normally, yeh I know it's not the easiest of jobs but I have run out of money to finance a tiler to be honest.
  4. Simons70

    Simons70 Professional Tiler

    Is not a joke this job,if was a small bathroom or cloak room you can try yourself,but this job is not easy for a tiler with 2-3 years experience day by day,so better to think twice.
    You already spend a lot of money in all materials for take the risk to do it again,if you not have money now is better wait until you can afford a right tiler.
    • Like Like x 2
  5. pdc

    pdc Speling & grammer specialyst Professional Tiler

    Is it a floating floor? If so you'll have to rethink your plans.

    I'd be setting out from the biggest area, check that you don't have any little slithers to cut in doorways etc.
    800 × 800 will need a perfectly flat floor and probably someone to help you. Levelling clips will also help with lippage.
    • Like Like x 1
  6. timeless john

    timeless john Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    North East England
    I'am with @Simons70@Simons70 - there is giving advice and trying to explain years of experience in a few posts.
    There is a library of information in the search area and I'am sure everything will be there to help.
    Good luck.
    • Like Like x 6
  7. Ttt1601

    Ttt1601 Professional Tiler JOTM Winner

    I agree with above its best to save up a bit of cash and get pro but if you are going to do it, please don't lay with a 6mm notch trowel, you will need a 12mm and they will have to be back buttered, and read as much info from here as possible, we are all willing to help with advice as no one wants you to end up with a poor quality floor, but as stated before this isn't an easy thing to just have a go at
  8. mp3wizard

    mp3wizard Active Member

    bristol uk
    no it's just a standard floor, right ok, thanks for the advice, I will buy a 12mm trowel.

    Do you think it would cause me any problems, if I tiled the bathroom first? as I'd like to have a bathroom fitted asap. It's a really small room so 4 tiles and some cuts would do it pretty much.
  9. jcrtiling

    jcrtiling Professional Tiler TTA Member Top Contributor

    What do you mean by standard floor if it chipboard or any sheet material on top of insulation without being fixed down to any timbers it is a floating floor .
  10. mp3wizard

    mp3wizard Active Member

    bristol uk
    There's timbers, then insulation between the rafters then big sheets of board screwed down.

  11. widler

    widler THE Troll Wannabe Professional Tiler

    What you should do is glue and screw insulation boards down , lay electric matting , pour self leveler on top, then tile when slc has set .
    Id find the center on the bifolds and work your setting out from there, either grout joint in center of glass or full tile spanning the middle door.
    Measure your cut to the long wall, cut them all and work from that wall.
    Id get standard set adhesive as well
  12. mp3wizard

    mp3wizard Active Member

    bristol uk
    thanks for your input widler, i'm not planning to use insulation boards, i'm planning to lay the electric matting straight onto the wood as you see it above after painting it with a heat resistant primer, without any self levelling, as the surface is flat, I was going to use 3mm spacers inbetween the tiles, but I've seen levelling spacers which look like a better option for me. I'd like the smallest grout line possible but I see most people recommend 3mm as the smallest line, would you agree?

    So basically all the cuts should be on the lefthand wall, so you can see full tiles infront of you as you walk in the room, makes sense.
  13. Localtiler

    Localtiler Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Regardless of what good info you read on here, your own ability will probably fall short on a job like this, get some one in and save up if need be, you have to walk on this floor every morning when your having your weetabix
  14. Kyle Knowles

    Kyle Knowles Professional Tiler

    Just imagine years on being unhappy looking at the floor lips everywhere joints all wonky and un even thinking what It could have been id for sure just live with what u have till u can get a professional
    • Like Like x 1
  15. Ttt1601

    Ttt1601 Professional Tiler JOTM Winner

    He is right
    • Like Like x 1
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