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Discuss Dry cutter thread....for use with polished porcelain in the Tiling Tools area at TilersForums.com.

1

1animal1

Morning chaps!

I have been lurking on here for a while now, gathering bits of information and opinion on how best to complete my DIY jobs. I can't thank you chaps enough. My latest has caused me a bit of an issue though which is why I've joined up to ask what you guys think.

I am just in the process of rebuilding our en suite, after which I'll be tiling floor to ceiling with 10mm Porcelain, 60x60 on the floor, 60x30's on the walls (same tile). The last job (downstairs toilet) has prompted me to look at other options to my Plasplugs wet saw (don't laugh :) ), which has served me very well over the years. I can't help but think that it's slowing me down massively....

So looking into dry cutters that will cut polished Porcelain I have found that you get what you pay for! and i obviously want as much as possible for the least outlay (surprise :) ). Having looked at models and almost settling on the TS60, I have since read a few more articles on how rubbish these are for porcelain and how i would need a TX minimum for the 60x60 tiles, I'm also concerned that when i get to the ends and try cutting 30-40mm pieces off the 60x60's, i'll be left with a few dead tiles. So this has led me on to the very reasonably priced Sigma 3L3M which I've found for what seems like a bargain £224! sadly it won't do 600mm tiles..... I've read that the 3B4M is a good possibility, but this being a model of the 3B3M, am i best going for the older models?

My question is, would this be a good first tile splitter? Or should i start looking at lesser brands where i may get more for my money considering i won't be using it as a daily... I am looking at buying something half decent as soon I'll have a much larger bathroom and large kitchen to hit and I'm favouring the polished P for the floor in that (despite the ball ache of dewaxing & sealing).

Any help is much appreciated.

Tim
 
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L

LM

It's vital that you make sure that you have the height of the bar set correctly depending on the tile thickness. With a tile on the bed of the cutter position the handle over it, the distance between the top of the rail and the underside of the back of the handle (the gap where the rail goes through the handle) must be between 10-15 mm for a Max handle and 3-5mm for klick klock and pull handles. Check this at both ends of the cutter. If this isnt correct you'll struggle to break tile properly.
 
F

Flintstone

It's vital that you make sure that you have the height of the bar set correctly depending on the tile thickness. With a tile on the bed of the cutter position the handle over it, the distance between the top of the rail and the underside of the back of the handle (the gap where the rail goes through the handle) must be between 10-15 mm for a Max handle and 3-5mm for klick klock and pull handles. Check this at both ends of the cutter. If this isnt correct you'll struggle to break tile properly.

On the max handle, is that with the feet down or the wheel on the tile
 
L

LM

1st row 2nd picture
istr0920164.jpg
 
1

1animal1

I watched the videos originally to find out how to height adjust, but seems I've been doing it the hard way :)

PS thanks for the amazing timely advice! I was about to be one tile short, rectified only by splitting a spare 600mm square, now I won't need to cut my spare as was about to cut 20mm off an offcut... If my next two cuts go well then all is good in the world again :)

Can't believe how quickly I've been able to accurately cut and lay this lot... Nearly finished almost 20sqmts since last Friday. This Sigma was 100% worth the money.. glad I listened to you all
 
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