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Discuss Anhydrate floor, best adhesive in the Australia area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)

B

barno101

We got 144 m2 of anhydrite floor area to tile ,,with 600 ,,600 porcelain tiles to go down on it .
We are getting mixed messages as to what adhesive to use , and what sealer to use .
So i thought I would consult the Experts on the Tilers forum for some good old professional advice
Cheers
 
I

Ian

I always use anhyfix from tilemaster and prime with their prime plus mixed 3:1, water : primer. Highly recommended. I've done just over 1000m on these screeds now using these products, and no problems of any sort to report.
 

Ajax123

TF
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We got 144 m2 of anhydrite floor area to tile ,,with 600 ,,600 porcelain tiles to go down on it .
We are getting mixed messages as to what adhesive to use , and what sealer to use .
So i thought I would consult the Experts on the Tilers forum for some good old professional advice
Cheers
Avoid cement. Use gypsum. Simples
 
T

Tile Shop

I spoke to one of the guys at BAL, regarding their competitors making Gypsum based adhesives and them not. He said that its not recommended as if it comes into contact with water after it has cured, it can crystallise and blow the tile. They will only ever recommend a cement based adhesive, once Primed with APD.

More commonly than not, the gypsum adhesives are only used in dry areas because of this. But with most grouts being water resistant instead of fully waterproof, when say a kitchen or hallway floor is mopped on a regular basis, then I guess water must go through to some extent???

I also read that this crystallisation can occur when coming into direct contact with cement. So I suppose that's why it needs fully priming. But the grouts are cement based too, so that will come into contact with the adhesive and cause the crystals to form at the edges of the tiles???

For that reason, i'm currently with BAL on this unless someone can put my mind fully at ease that the Anhydrite adhesives won't fail for the above reasons. Are there any precautions that can be made?
 
J

Just Rizzle

I spoke to one of the guys at BAL, regarding their competitors making Gypsum based adhesives and them not. He said that its not recommended as if it comes into contact with water after it has cured, it can crystallise and blow the tile. They will only ever recommend a cement based adhesive, once Primed with APD.

More commonly than not, the gypsum adhesives are only used in dry areas because of this. But with most grouts being water resistant instead of fully waterproof, when say a kitchen or hallway floor is mopped on a regular basis, then I guess water must go through to some extent???

I also read that this crystallisation can occur when coming into direct contact with cement. So I suppose that's why it needs fully priming. But the grouts are cement based too, so that will come into contact with the adhesive and cause the crystals to form at the edges of the tiles???

For that reason, i'm currently with BAL on this unless someone can put my mind fully at ease that the Anhydrite adhesives won't fail for the above reasons. Are there any precautions that can be made?

there boumd to recommend there products, biggest load of drive lfrom bal talk to the guys at tilemaster I can give you there reps number if you contact me via mail box
ive seen loads of cement failures but haven't heard of any when anhyfix used as first choice on anhydrite
 
T

Tile Shop

Might have to venture on down to my "lab" and whip out a bag of the TM anhyfix and put it through its paces..... which i guess tilemaster, granfix etc have already done.

But if these adhesives are getting more popular, amazes me why Bal don't jump on the wagon and make their own.... unless they're right of course???
 
T

Tile Shop

This next question may be worth its own thread but will start it here. Do you A... use a gypsum based adh to tile onto plastered walls, B... prime then cement based, or C... rip off the plaster and overboard with hardi? (We are saying the tiles are under 20kg but too big for readymixed.)
 
O

Old Mod

Generally speaking, unusual conditions notwithstanding, u would just prime plaster, and as long as its fully dried, prime as per instructions of your chosen adhesive.
Even if the tiles exceed 20KgM2 unless the plaster is in a bad state of repair, you still wouldn't need to remove the plaster.
U can overboard directly over it.
U would still prime first, then stick the Hardie to it with adhesive plus you would have the addition of mechanical fixing,which is standard practise anyway.
The adhesive is not used primarily to adhere the Hardie,the mechanical fixings are there for that!
The adhesive is used to take up any unevenness in the substrate.
Why would u suggest ready mixed anyway?
I don't actually remember the last time I took a lid off a bucket of adhesive, truly I don't!
 
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Might have to venture on down to my "lab" and whip out a bag of the TM anhyfix and put it through its paces..... which i guess tilemaster, granfix etc have already done.

TM Anhyfix is made by Tilemaster!

Test away, think you'll then find why alot are buying it ;)
 

Dan

Admin
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This next question may be worth its own thread but will start it here. Do you A... use a gypsum based adh to tile onto plastered walls, B... prime then cement based, or C... rip off the plaster and overboard with hardi? (We are saying the tiles are under 20kg but too big for readymixed.)
Prime and cement-based.
 
T

Tile Shop

Ok. Thats the way i always thought until the gypsums came out. Then i got confused
 
M

MW Smith Ceramics

Bal
I spoke to one of the guys at BAL, regarding their competitors making Gypsum based adhesives and them not. He said that its not recommended as if it comes into contact with water after it has cured, it can crystallise and blow the tile. They will only ever recommend a cement based adhesive, once Primed with APD.

More commonly than not, the gypsum adhesives are only used in dry areas because of this. But with most grouts being water resistant instead of fully waterproof, when say a kitchen or hallway floor is mopped on a regular basis, then I guess water must go through to some extent???

I also read that this crystallisation can occur when coming into direct contact with cement. So I suppose that's why it needs fully priming. But the grouts are cement based too, so that will come into contact with the adhesive and cause the crystals to form at the edges of the tiles???

For that reason, i'm currently with BAL on this unless someone can put my mind fully at ease that the Anhydrite adhesives won't fail for the above reasons. Are there any precautions that can be made?
have said the same thing to me, they say prime with apd then go on floor with an S1 and that this is to British standards and that British standards doesn't state anything regarding gypsum based adhesives onto anyhydrate......so I've worked for big tiling contractors and anyhydrate adhesive was never used, always a special primer called PCi 303 I think then s1 but since I've been working for myself I have used tile master anhyfix as screening contractors have actually told me not to use cement bases!!!.....
 

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