My 1st Job Which one? - DIY Kitchen Tiling Job :)

[Faithfull]

Good Afternoon.

Looking at taking on my first DIY Tiling job in our kitchen. I will be covering roughly 3.5m2 and will be using a 20x10cm ceramic tile (ToppsTiles Matrix White tile).

Watched various online videos etc but i'm confused which adhesive i should use. Was initially set on a ready mixed one for ease etc but after reading many reviews on different sites im now even more confused than before.

I just wanted something that was easy to work with, wasn't going to set to quick as this is my first time tiling.

I have borrowed this picture from another thread (sorry to the owner), basically our kitchen is identical so its mainly a splashback but we don't have the small upstand anymore.



Any recommendations please would be appreciated.

 

[J Sid]

Bal white star will be good. Make sure adhesive is dry before grouting

 

[Dave]

Hi , are your walls painted or bare plaster ?

 

[Faithfull]

Hi , are your walls painted or bare plaster ?

Hi Dave, They are painted white (new build but 4 years old) except for where we have ripped the upstand off which i presume is bare plaster.

 

[Dave]

Hi Dave, They are painted white (new build but 4 years old) except for where we have ripped the upstand off which i presume is bare plaster.

Ok , is the paint porous ? , does it wet up when you wash it ?

 

[Faithfull]

Ok , is the paint porous ? , does it wet up when you wash it ?

I have no idea, i haven't tried/didn't know to test it to be honest. All i know its probably a trade type emulsion.

When you say 'wet up', what do you mean? can it be wiped clean?

 

[Dave]

I have no idea, i haven't tried/didn't know to test it to be honest. All i know its probably a trade type emulsion.

When you say 'wet up', what do you mean? can it be wiped clean?

I mean does it darken when wet. If so then it’s porous and needs to be removed , some can simply be scrubbed off with a scotch pad.
it’s not really advisable to tile on emulsion.

As for adhesive choice , then the one Julian mentioned is ok for that size tiles , follow instructions on the bucket

 

[Faithfull]

I mean does it darken when wet. If so then it’s porous and needs to be removed , some can simply be scrubbed off with a scotch pad.
it’s not really advisable to tile on emulsion.

As for adhesive choice , then the one Julian mentioned is ok for that size tiles , follow instructions on the bucket

Ok thank you, will check tonight. Around the cooker/hob area it does have staining from oil etc which i was going to lightly sand/key up prior to fitting the tiles anyway. Then would it be beneficial to clean with sugar soap?

Or do i need to fully remove all paint to be 100% sure.

 

[J Sid]

Get one of these and remove paint

 

[Faithfull]

Get one of these and remove paint
View attachment 110346

Will do thank you, once removed do i need to do anything to the plasterboard or then can i tile straight on? If i remember correctly ready to use adhesive's have a primer in them?

 

[Dave]

Will do thank you, once removed do i need to do anything to the plasterboard or then can i tile straight on? If i remember correctly ready to use adhesive's have a primer in them?

If using dispersion adhesive ( bucket) then ye straight on ( dust free )

 

[Faithfull]

Ok , is the paint porous ? , does it wet up when you wash it ?

Just got home and wiped water on the wall, it doesn't darken no.

 

[Dave]

Just got home and wiped water on the wall, it doesn't darken no.

Try to remove as much as you can.

 

[Faithfull]

Going to start today, father in law popped round to give me advice and I'm sure he is right. He has taken a line for me to start so that the top of my tiles finish on the window ledge so then the tiles on the window ledge cover the top of the wall tiles.

This then means the tiles that are going to sit on the work top will need some cutting but he said that is best as worktops aren't always straight and it's the best way to hide any unevenness. The only issue with this is that it's going to be a pig cutting around the 8 sockets I have in one line 😣

He also said don't worry about using a spacer for the tiles which sit on the worktop. The last picture is if I used a full tile on the bottom row but he said not to do that.

 

[Dumbo]

I don't know about your window sill .
But I go full tile of the worktop with a spacer every time , there may be an occasion one day that I don't but not yet .

 

[Dave]

full tile from worktop 👍

 

[Faithfull]

This is how my window sill setup looks like if it makes any difference. The bottom picture is if I go with the line he has setup.

He said it's because it hides the fact if the worktop isnt level where as if I go with full tile from the worktop it will draw your eyes straight to it if not level...

I'm confused now with what way to go

 

[Tony_C]

Full tile of worktop also.

You can choose to listen to the father in law or the folk who do this day in day out, make your life easier around the sockets also. Stick a level on your worktop if you are worried about it not being level.

 

[Tony_C]

P.S. nice pic at the top

 

[Faithfull]

P.S. nice pic at the top

Like yours should I work out from the middle of the extractor fan area? Even if that's not in the middle of the worktop overall?

 

[Tony_C]

Yes rule of thumb is to center with the hood as its a more focal point, providing it leaves you with good cuts into the sockets and ends. You can adjust what row is full or half tile to make the sockets easier also. That may seem obvious sorry but its not to everyone
[automerge]1570879619[/automerge]
This thread will be of some use to you also for that control panel/socket to the far right as it's a little different to your normal socket

How do I tile around switches and sockets? - How to tile properly around sockets

Hi How do you get a better finish with the below switch please

www.tilersforums.com

 

[Dumbo]

How unlevel is your worktop . It has to be really bad . Also for your bottom row of tiles would have to be cut at an angle for that reasoning to have any value .

 

[Dave]

Also , if you have enough depth in the window frame , dab some plasterboard on the cill to full tile.

 

[Dumbo]

Also , if you have enough depth in the window frame , dab some plasterboard on the cill to full tile.

Was looking at that option also as he has quite a large margin at the bottom of the window sill

 

[Faithfull]

How unlevel is your worktop . It has to be really bad . Also for your bottom row of tiles would have to be cut at an angle for that reasoning to have any value .

It's an L-shape. One side is ok but the other side with the window frame runs down into the corner by 22mm over a 3m length.

 

[Steve6690]

lesson from a professional instructor