DIY Tiler - Wood effect porcelain tiles, large format

[Time's Ran Out]

Then I see this thread going on for weeks!
There are many threads in the search area on liquid screeds, setting out of floors and the use of levelling clips.
Enjoy.

 

[Flintstone]

im afraid my advice has run dry now you have disliked my post!

 

[LM]

Mambo, "bout ye!"
I'm hoping you disliked @Localtiler's post by mistake as everything he pointed out is vital to a successful instillation.
In this forum if you ask in the right way you'll get all the correct advice for FREE that you could possibly ever need, we are a very welcoming and helpful bunch!
Starting from the top as you put it.
1mm grout gap isn't enough on top of a heated screed, 2mm is stretching it. A tile display in a shop is a different beast altogether than your actual circumstances.
What if any expansion joints and where have you considered putting them?
+/-3mm floor is poor for a 1200mm plank tile, clips are a serious help to achieving a lip free floor.
By what means did you take the moisture reading?
If the floor is fully commissioned as per manufactures recommendations then be sure to follow BAL's instructions as to the correct procedure for tiling on a screed with WUFH, don't be afraid to call their tech dept, here's their number 00441782591120.
A 10mm notch won't give you 6mm bed depth, flat skim the back of the tile and the trowel the floor in a single direction and your adhesive bed depth will be more like 2/3mm. Personally I'd go with a 12mm notch for that tile.
Your clipper won't be much good to you on these tiles except for small checks, you'd be better off with a decent manual cutter and an 115mm angle grinder with a good blade.
As for not seeing the point in primer, well where do I begin, is the screed a calcium/gypsum based product?
In what way did you hope a laser was going to aid you with this installation?

 

[Mambo]

Thanks Lee Mac for your helpful Post. I though I had pressed funny to Local tiles...so many button

Point noted on grout line as I hadnt considered the UFH. I would still like to keep this minimal as possible so 2mm sounds good. The are is actually 3 difference section with a spilt level between Kitchen and dinning are with both area approx 5m x 5m. I was intending to level a 5mm to 7mm gap at perimeter which will be cover with kitchen units or skirting depending on where is. Do you think this is enough.

Noted on bed depth. With the screed being the way it is I don't think a 2/3 mm bed will get me out. My concern with clips is that they would appear to work by pulling up the tile and away from adhesive which goes against normal thinking. I have tried cutting a fee sample tile with my clipper and it has no issues. I find it a great little tool. I will get a new blade for the grinder just in case.
The screed is a sand and cement based screed and I borrowed a mates laserline moisture reader. It cost him £250 so it's a pretty decent bit of kit. Do I need to prime a sand and cement screed ?.

 

[LM]

Thanks Lee Mac for your helpful Post. I though I had pressed funny to Local tiles...so many button

Point noted on grout line as I hadnt considered the UFH. I would still like to keep this minimal as possible so 2mm sounds good. The are is actually 3 difference section with a spilt level between Kitchen and dinning are with both area approx 5m x 5m. I was intending to level a 5mm to 7mm gap at perimeter which will be cover with kitchen units or skirting depending on where is. Do you think this is enough.

Noted on bed depth. With the screed being the way it is I don't think a 2/3 mm bed will get me out. My concern with clips is that they would appear to work by pulling up the tile and away from adhesive which goes against normal thinking. I have tried cutting a fee sample tile with my clipper and it has no issues. I find it a great little tool. I will get a new blade for the grinder just in case.
The screed is a sand and cement based screed and I borrowed a mates laserline moisture reader. It cost him £250 so it's a pretty decent bit of kit. Do I need to prime a sand and cement screed ?.

Normally you shouldn't unless it appears rather dusty/absorbent.
Priming never hurts, if it's dusty then a properly diluted acrylic primer would benefit you. Make sure to burn/key in the adhesive before final notching.
Those moisture readings taken from that device could only be considered as a rough guide to the status of the floor, but in this instance with a s/c screed and the time elapsed you'll be fine anyway.
If the floor is uneven then level it. You'll only be filling the dips with adhesive anyway and self leveller is the cheapest way to level a floor. Also it'll make the installation of the tiles quicker.
What clips have you tried?
If you back butter the tiles and use a 12mm notch the clips are a definite help in leaving a nice flat floor.

 

[Mambo]

Haven't tried any clips...just a few utube vidoes..i have spoken to a few older tilers and they have never used them and don't see the benefit. As I say I am open to anything that helps but are they worth the investment.

One of these tilers swears by Dunlop adhesive and says I am throwing away money using Bal..any advise?

 

[Flintstone]

Old tilers are living in the 1990s in my opinion, it's a fast moving trade and lots of new products out to make the job better or easier in certain circumstances. Leave Dunlop to make tennis balls

 

[LM]

Haven't tried any clips...just a few utube vidoes..i have spoken to a few older tilers and they have never used them and don't see the benefit. As I say I am open to anything that helps but are they worth the investment.

One of these tilers swears by Dunlop adhesive and says I am throwing away money using Bal..any advise?

RLS from Ramondi or Genisis Easy level are two that I'd recommend as far as clips go and yes they are without a doubt worth the investment.
Dunlop adhesives come under the same umbrella as Ardex and Bal. Dunlop and Profix are two brands made by that group as a contract range. They won't have the same polymers etc as the two premium brands but IMO they are good enough for straight forward installations.
As @Localtiler said lots of 'old timers' but not all are stuck in their ways, but this game is evolving quicker than ever and if you don't keep up you'll be left behind. Yes you can battle your way through a large plank floor and get there in the end but the difference in time and quality finish with when using clips is IMO uncomparable.

 

[Italy]

RLS from Ramondi or Genisis Easy level are two that I'd recommend as far as clips go and yes they are without a doubt worth the investment.
Dunlop adhesives come under the same umbrella as Ardex and Bal. Dunlop and Profix are two brands made by that group as a contract range. They won't have the same polymers etc as the two premium brands but IMO they are good enough for straight forward installations.
As @Localtiler said lots of 'old timers' but not all are stuck in their ways, but this game is evolving quicker than ever and if you don't keep up you'll be left behind. Yes you can battle your way through a large plank floor and get there in the end but the difference in time and quality finish with when using clips is IMO uncomparable.

Yes you can battle your way through a large plank floor and get there in the end but the difference in time and quality finish with when using clips is IMO uncomparable................
it is nice to have people talking for me......

I'm enjoying. great lee

 

[Mambo]

Thanks guy....I think I will invest in the clips..if I go with Dunlop grout as opposed to Bal the overall cost will be very similar..just get a lot of conflicting opinion on the adhesive...might sleep on it..