Porcelain tiling around window; which way to go; edging stip or mitre?? - TilersForums.com

[ojtiler]

Hi all,

My first post here, so apologies for any errors in terminology that follows:smilewinkgrin:. I would really appreciate your advice for my bathroom project.

Having spent 3 months gutting & extending my bathroom, I'm finally ready to start tiling! I have already purchased the tiles (60cmx30cm porcelain with rectified edge, approx. 9.5mm thick), which I plan to hang horizontally in a grid pattern (i.e. not brickwork pattern). The problem is, if I tile level with the base window cill, the tiles at the top of the window will be about 25mm above the edge (see black lines marked on the left wall of the window in the first attached photo). So - I'm obviously going to have to cut the tiles to fit the aperture!! This is also the case on the recessed shelf in the stud wall (see second photo). The 3rd attached photo shows one of my tiles.

My original plan was to use edging strip for all the external corners, but I have not been able to find an edging strip yet which will cover the cut edge of my tiles (I guess the depth of the tile with adhesive will be about 12-13mm). Therefore I am concerned that the join between the exposed cut edge of the tile and the edging strip will not look neat. Having read a few of the existing posts here, I like the clean appearance of mitred edges and am therefore looking at the option of mitring the joints around both the window and the recess feature in the stud wall. Although I have not mitred tiles before, I am confident I could do this with the right tool.... I need to buy a new tile cutter for this job anyway.

Specifically I would appreciate any advice on the following:

1. does anyone know a supplier for edging strip which will cover the cut edge of my tile?.... I'm not too fussed about the exact profile of the strip but the ideal would be square section chrome/steel modern appearance to match other fittings
2. If I go for the mitring option , I will have some tiles at the corner of the window which would need mitring around an 'L shape'.... how can I do this and does the result look neat?
3. If I mitre the tiles, do the mitred edges at the external corner of the window need any grout?, or do they just butt join with very little/no gap?
4. Will mitred joints for these tiles be robust over time (i.e. avoid chipping)?
5. What cutter would you recommend which would have capability for doing the mitring, too?
6. Which option would you recommend, based on your experience; edging strip or mitred???

Sorry so many questions for post #1!.....Many thanks in advance for any guidance....

 

[Gazzer]

Plenty of 12mm tile trim around. For that size tile 12mm should be fine.

 

[Ian]

As above use trim, the only time I really mitre is on stone or for skirting tiles. With regards to your setting out around the window, move it up or down a little so that you have a nicer balance of cuts at the top and bottom, this will mean doing 4 'L' cuts but will give a better finish than seeing a 25mm cut across the top. Ensure you get a nice balance of cut size when setting out the whole room. Was there any particular reason you wanted to come off the window cill with a whole tile?

 

[johnryan]

just a quick note about photo 2. looks like you're planning on tiling to plywood, which is something i would seriously consider changing, as i certainly wouldn't set porc tiles to plywood. i wouldn't actually tile anything to plywood, but i think you're asking for trouble tiling to it. could be an easy fix by overboarding with plasterboard which can carry 30k p/m2, which should be fine with those tiles. just thought i'd mention it even though it's not something you were asking about

 

[ojtiler]

Plenty of 12mm tile trim around. For that size tile 12mm should be fine.

Hi, many thanks for your prompt reply. Since posting the original query, I have located edging strip by Schluter, which looks as if it will be suitable. Do you know who stocks their components? - or would I need to order from them direct?


Thanks again.

 

[ojtiler]

As above use trim, the only time I really mitre is on stone or for skirting tiles. With regards to your setting out around the window, move it up or down a little so that you have a nicer balance of cuts at the top and bottom, this will mean doing 4 'L' cuts but will give a better finish than seeing a 25mm cut across the top. Ensure you get a nice balance of cut size when setting out the whole room. Was there any particular reason you wanted to come off the window cill with a whole tile?

Bri - thanks for your prompt reply & advice. Ref. your suggestion of moving the tiles up or down relative to the window aperture, my main motivation for tiling the wall below the cill with a whole tile is that with the window being only 25mm higher than the nearest even number of tiles I'm either going to have a) 25mm at the top, b) 25mm at the bottom (if I move the tiles down), or c) something between the two (if I move to a position in between). I'm thinking 25mm at the top will probably be the best compromise as it will leave the window cill 'cleaner' on the eye. The other reason I'm looking at tiling below the window cill with a whole tile is that, at this position, I have 2 full tiles from the cill down to the level of the bath which is being installed below the window. This way I'm thinking I'll avoid less cutting and, again, a 'cleaner' looking wall. Hope this makes sense and appreciate any further comments...

 

[ojtiler]

just a quick note about photo 2. looks like you're planning on tiling to plywood, which is something i would seriously consider changing, as i certainly wouldn't set porc tiles to plywood. i wouldn't actually tile anything to plywood, but i think you're asking for trouble tiling to it. could be an easy fix by overboarding with plasterboard which can carry 30k p/m2, which should be fine with those tiles. just thought i'd mention it even though it's not something you were asking about

Johnryan - thanks for your reply. Could you be more specific about your concerns ref. bonding the tiles straight onto plywood? Do you think the plywood will be unable to take the weight??, or is the bond itself not strong enough? I used ply because I had a large stock from a previous building job; it's 12mm WBP - and I used it on an ensuite bathroom (with tiling bonded) about 5 years ago - no problems as yet! I'm planning to apply an acrylic primer onto the plywood before tiling. Would appreciate your further thoughts.....

Thanks

 

[swanman]

Tiling onto to ply you will have to use a flexible adhesaive

 

[ojtiler]

Tiling onto to ply you will have to use a flexible adhesaive

Thanks swanman, yes - on the recommendation of the tiler supplier, I've bought Larsen Flexible Standard Set (powdered adhesive). Is this OK? Any more thoughts on making tiling onto ply as strong as possible would be welcome - I don't really want to put additional boarding up as the dimensions of the room are very tight already.


Thanks again..

 

[Gazzer]

Hi, many thanks for your prompt reply. Since posting the original query, I have located edging strip by Schluter, which looks as if it will be suitable. Do you know who stocks their components? - or would I need to order from them direct?


Thanks again.

CTD stock Schutler but its very expensive, An alternative would be Genesis.

 

[Gazzer]

Johnryan - thanks for your reply. Could you be more specific about your concerns ref. bonding the tiles straight onto plywood? Do you think the plywood will be unable to take the weight??, or is the bond itself not strong enough? I used ply because I had a large stock from a previous building job; it's 12mm WBP - and I used it on an ensuite bathroom (with tiling bonded) about 5 years ago - no problems as yet! I'm planning to apply an acrylic primer onto the plywood before tiling. Would appreciate your further thoughts.....

Thanks

The back and edges of the ply should have been primed, usually the adhesive manufacturer states that it is not needed to prime the face. Also technically 15mm WBP is min spec.

 

[johnryan]

i know a lot of people do still tile onto ply and there are adhesives that are rated to do this, but i dont like to tile direct to any type of wood surface any more. even if tiling to ply floors i'll always put a hardibacker or marmox etc. down as i've seen quite a few cases of adhesives debonding from ply surfaces, and even the layers of the ply itself delaminating. i'm not saying this will happen, but it is something that i've seen quite a lot of over the years, even when the right adhesives have been used ie. spf etc. my aplogies if this is incorrect advice, but is just something that personally, i'd always avoid doing. hope it all goes well for you.
cheers

john

 

[Gazzer]

I dont like Ply either, the problems will only become worse with the market being flooded with cheap ply imports. Go into the DIY shed and you can tuck a piece of 8x4 18mm ply under your arm it is so light !

 

[ojtiler]

I dont like Ply either, the problems will only become worse with the market being flooded with cheap ply imports. Go into the DIY shed and you can tuck a piece of 8x4 18mm ply under your arm it is so light !

Thanks for the advice/comments. I've found suitable edging strip now, so will be going down that route. However, still not sure how to proceed with the install given the comments about tiling onto plywood, so will cover that in a separate post.


Thanks again.