bowed floor boards

[davediy]

It had crossed my mind to take up the tongue and groove and put down chipboard flooring even before i noticed the bowing - there are a couple of places with odd holes and roughly removed/replaced boards. I need to do something like that under the toilet where the floor boards are a bit rank. Is 18mm wbp ply thick enough in place of the floor boards and is it better than flooring chipboard.

 

[tfs]

It had crossed my mind to take up the tongue and groove and put down chipboard flooring even before i noticed the bowing - there are a couple of places with odd holes and roughly removed/replaced boards. I need to do something like that under the toilet where the floor boards are a bit rank. Is 18mm wbp ply thick enough in place of the floor boards and is it better than flooring chipboard.

Mate, the floor bords will not be the main problem. In most cases the joists may also have warped or sunk etc due to movement, moisture and movement as expected over time so laifting floor board and sheeting with ply is not neccasseraly the best solution. If the prep work is just for Amtico or Karndean etc, then you realy just need to make the existing floor level. You can acheive this by sanding down or filling and dips etc with a screed and then sheet over the area with 6mm ply you were inttending to use. Just remeber to prime before screeding and feather finnish any joints between the board of ply.

With the right products this will be a faster way to do than ripping up all floorboards and then sheeting with 18mm ply. 18mm ply is not a cheap option and after screwing you will prob still find that the floor is not flat. Some old floor boards may need replacing but I wouldnt replace them all if it was me.

I have experience in this type of flooring and have been employed in the industry and the ways I have mentioned were used with success.

Design vinyl does not require the absolute stabilty that ceramic and stome do as it will not break and crack the way ceramics will.

 

[davediy]

right thats it then plane, leveller, screw down 6mm ply feather gaps.
Thanks you all for your help and patience.

 

[tfs]

right thats it then plane, leveller, screw down 6mm ply feather gaps.
Thanks you all for your help and patience.

Anular ring nail are suitable on this occassion mate lol they will be much faster too.:smilewinkgrin:

 

[FreeD]

tfs have to check out f ball tech...

so tfs you would screed first before overlaying with ply? what self leveling compound would you recommend to go directly onto the floorboards?

so have i done mine the wrong way round! would have thought it was quicker to ply first...what with all the gaps to fill between floorboards

 

[tfs]

tfs have to check out f ball tech...

so tfs you would screed first before overlaying with ply? what self leveling compound would you recommend to go directly onto the floorboards?

so have i done mine the wrong way round! would have thought it was quicker to ply first...what with all the gaps to fill between floorboards

I am in no position to say you did it wrong mate. Do it whatever way you believe is best.:smilewinkgrin:

I meant patch screeding (just dipping areas) if you were to screed over the ply there would be no need to screed full area either but, if you screed over the ply I would be worried about the screed failing to bond good enough to the ply and worst case scenario it could cause a tile or plank to lift from the floor. As for screed falling through gaps, gaps are usualy not that big between boards and tend to be filled with debris. After priming they would most likely be sealed.

If you patch screed under the ply it sorts the uneven areas of the floor and is then sheeted over and you get a direct bond to the ply.

i CANT SAY AN EAXCT TYPE THAT i WOULD RECCOMEND FOR THIS BUT, STOPGAP RANGE AND TWO PART LATEX SCREED. The website will advise on the best ones. They have a very good range. F Ball - The First Choice for Flooring Professionals - Product Search

 

[doug boardley]

certainly from a ceramic tiling point of view, ply overlay screwed, then slc if needed!!

 

[tfs]

certainly from a ceramic tiling point of view, ply overlay screwed, then slc if needed!!

I can only imagine that products for tiling trade and those for the flooring industry have been made to work with materials in there own industry. I dont know if screeds used for flooring could meet the same requirements as those used for tiling.

Just the way its done in the flooring game. Just as PVA is suitable for priming some surfaces but, as we have alll read on here its not suitable for priming priot to tiling. lol

Screwing isnt required as the nails wouldnt crack vinyl. Yes it could perhaps possibly make a dent in the flooring it it became loos. (i have never hear of this) and it is much faster. Vinyl is not (as we all know) the same as ceramic or stone tile. Also when work with a very thgin ply screwing may not alwys be best as the head can at time be close to counter sinking through the ply and with high traffic could potentialy go straight though thin ply. It is not as common for thick ply to be used for this type of floor unless part of the floor need to be raised to meet a higher part (the joining of two rooms for example)

 

[tfs]

I appoligise in for my bad spelling and grammer etc:lol:

I just think and try to keep up when im typing:lol::dizzy2::dizzy2:

 

[doug boardley]

screwing the ply has nothing to do with cracking tiles etc, it's to keep the ply securely anchored to joists/floorboards!! any deflection movement etc will eventually work ring shanks/nails loose.