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Discuss tiling on timber with ufh in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

Hi

Ive been browsing your forums over the years looking for guidance for odd tiling DIY tasks, and the advice I have read has been very helpful.

Im currently planning to have my ground floor tiled with 600x600 porcelain tiles, with wet underfloor heating. The main two house rooms are fully open plan through to an extension room (just one long room). The house rooms have timber suspended floorboards, and the extension room has a concrete floor. The kitchen joins to this area through two doors and already has tiling, and I estimate the gap from the timber to the top of the kitchen tiles is around 30mm

My builder friend, who is a great builder but not an expert tiler, had planned to use OSB boards cut around the ufh pipes, and then fill in with tiling adhesive and build up to the kitchen level.

On your forums I've read that using OSB or shuttering ply is definitely a bad thing. So I've told him thats not going to work.

My new idea is to screw down the timber floor boards as well as they can, apply ardex af200 and then put down some very thin silver foil underlay. This will act as some insulation. On top of this foil underlay, I plan on laying out the ufh pipes and secure them to the timber (through the foil) using U nails. I would then use Larsen SLC 1550 and build up to around 18mm . The tiles would be then fixed on this base using Larsen flexible standard set+ adhesive.

I would use a couple of metres of thin decoupling membrane under the tiles in the area where timber floorboards meet the extension concrete floor and use silicone between the tiles instead of grout. Is that an expansion joint?

I have already bought tiles, silver underlay, tile adhesive. I havent yet purchased any of the SLC1550.

Any advice would be appreciated. All the work is around 2 weeks away.

regards

Rajah
 
Ok thanks for the feedback. Ive re-planned the idea.

6mm Hardiebacker boards throughout, glued and screwed to the floating timber floor, glued to the concrete screed in the extension (acrylic primer on the screed first). Im putting hardiebacker in both the timber floor lounge and concrete floor extension to get same level. But Ill leave an expansion gap in between.

Then use 15mm Wundatrade premium+ EPS boards with UFH cut-outs to overlay on the hardie backer. These are glued down with Mapei Ultrabond ECO 380 (as per manufacturer instructions).

The ufh pipes are laid into the grooves, and then Larsen Standard Set Flexible Plus Adhesive S1 to put the 60x60 tiles onto the EPS boards.

Im hoping the 6mm hardie in addition to the 15mm EPS will give enough structural support to prevent any deflection.

The current timber floor seems in good condition thouhg and not much deflection at all. Ive placed a cup with water to the brim and jumped right next to it. All I see is a tiny ripple, but the water didnt fall. Tried that in several places. Do I really need the backer boards? See the video below:

Floor jump next to glass of water
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Auwq_NRG-1w&feature=youtu.be


I could get just 20mm EPS (instead of 15mm) and that would be more cost effective and efficient from a height perspective?
 

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