Tiling bath front (panel)

[derekdickinson]

Hi guy's / gals,
I have got to tile the front panel on a bath, (which I've never done before !) not got time for a joiner to line it out, but I'm capable of cutting some wood. Can anyone offer some advise on dimensions and is a trim necessary for where the tiles me the underside of the bath front.?? Pictures would be nice?? and when plylining etc would you advise fixing the panel permenantly or having it removable as the bath is of the jacuzzi type, may need access to service etc..

Any and all advise is much appreciated...

 

[AllurePTS]

Ideally. you want the face of the tile to finish a couple of mm under the lip of the bath if possible (then you can get a final silicon seal to the underside of the lip) so - you work out your tile thickness and the thickness of the adhesive bed that it requires - allow for the thickness of your sheet material (tile backer board if possible) ....that will give you the position for your framing, 2x2 regularized C16 whitewood is probably the easiest to work with for that. When you have framed up, fix your sheets with just a few screws then work out the biggest panel you could cut out from the middle of the side and end panels (leaving say 100mm all round to maintain rigidity) remove them again and do your cut outs with a jig saw then use some more sheet material to fix a sturdy lip ( say 50mm ish) all round the rear side of main sheet (so your cut out can then be placed back flush) refit your cut outs and take measurements of where the lines land and where the screws are (Keep this info somewhere safe) Then Tile it - make sure KEEP ENOUGH SPARE TILES ....so if you ever have to remove it, you can remove a few tiles and some grout lines to take your panels off ....refit and repair ....that's the tidiest way.

If you want to do it so that it's "properly removeable" you need to be more careful with your "removeable panel" measurements - to make sure the cut out lines fall in the middle of the grout lines .....do the grout lines in silicon instead of grout and put your screws in through the tiles (maybe chrome top mirror screws)

OR ....you can buy a proper magnetic "hidden panel system" from the likes of Schluter Ditra ....you can see it on their website mate.

Hope that helps

 

[White Room]

Heres the link for the magnets broken link removed There not that expensive

 

[derekdickinson]

Many thanks mate, that is great, lots of info I am sure I'll sort this now.. ...

 

[derekdickinson]

Heres the link for the magnets broken link removed There not that expensive

Cheers mate, I'll order some, if not for this job I can always use them again..:8:

 

[Deleted member 1779]

It's possible to pretile the front bath panel ahead of fitting it to the bath frame. Fixing it would involve screws and silicone.

The downside (for appearance) is that in each corner and the middle you will have six screws on show. These can be capped-off to improve their appearance but even so they will still be visible.

http://www.NoLinksToThis/sfd/i/cat/63/p1577163_l.jpg

Screwfix do these at £3.10 for a pack of ten screws which woul be enough to do a front panel (6) and have four left to do a bathroom mirror.

It might not be the most elegant solution to have capped heads on show on the bath panel but its options if you believe it will need to be removed....

The plus point of this method is that you will not need to replace the tiles if you have to access the bath cavity.

If you are working with hard stone tiles and need to drill a hole to fit the screw / cap then I am aware of a diamond drilling company who can help with this part...

 

[AllurePTS]

Schluter kit is the BEST method in my view mate

 

[mandy J]

Ideally. you want the face of the tile to finish a couple of mm under the lip of the bath if possible (then you can get a final silicon seal to the underside of the lip) so - you work out your tile thickness and the thickness of the adhesive bed that it requires - allow for the thickness of your sheet material (tile backer board if possible) ....that will give you the position for your framing, 2x2 regularized C16 whitewood is probably the easiest to work with for that. When you have framed up, fix your sheets with just a few screws then work out the biggest panel you could cut out from the middle of the side and end panels (leaving say 100mm all round to maintain rigidity) remove them again and do your cut outs with a jig saw then use some more sheet material to fix a sturdy lip ( say 50mm ish) all round the rear side of main sheet (so your cut out can then be placed back flush) refit your cut outs and take measurements of where the lines land and where the screws are (Keep this info somewhere safe) Then Tile it - make sure KEEP ENOUGH SPARE TILES ....so if you ever have to remove it, you can remove a few tiles and some grout lines to take your panels off ....refit and repair ....that's the tidiest way.

If you want to do it so that it's "properly removeable" you need to be more careful with your "removeable panel" measurements - to make sure the cut out lines fall in the middle of the grout lines .....do the grout lines in silicon instead of grout and put your screws in through the tiles (maybe chrome top mirror screws)

OR ....you can buy a proper magnetic "hidden panel system" from the likes of Schluter Ditra ....you can see it on their website mate.

Hope that helps

thank you for this it also helped me out.