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Discuss Tiles Cracked On All Hardiebacker Joins in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

Bathfix Bob

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I tiled an L shape bathroom floor 5 months ago and long cracks have appeared at 800mm centres striaght over the Hardiebacker joins.

I've never had any cracks through tiles since 6 years ago when i used to tile on 12mm ply.

The tiles are 300mm British ceramic.

House was built 1984, standard 18mm floorboards which I securely screwed down, deflection free.
Hardiebacker was laid onto rapidset flexible addy (Larson) and staggered over floorboards, I always end Hardie half way along a floorboard.

Screwed down fully including extra screws on the edges and then tiled with Ultra fast set.
Its a method that has never failed in 6 years apart from this floor.
The only thing is up to now I've just been taping and filling the joins with plasterboard scrim tape, but I'm going to switch to the thicker type after this.

Cannot work out why this floor should fail and all the others havent, there are no leaks anywhere, no RSJ underneath, no recent work.
 

Rich Midge

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Ultra Pro Flex or Pro Rapid? I know a couple of tilers who have used the pro rapid over boards and had problems even though it states it'll go over over boarded floors.
 
T

Time's Ran Out

It's the tiles!
30x30 British ceramic that state they are suitable for no shoe floors!!
They are a soft glaze/wall tile biscuit that IMHO should not be used on floors.
Even if there is no movement in the floor ( and in this case there must be a small amount) they will crack on these seams. I'd insist I would only fix these over Ditra in a bathroom.
Unless you got a disclaimer it's still your fault.
 

macten

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Agreed - even without tape there's no way that should happen, got to be the tiles.
 
S

Spud

I have had similar problems in the past with hardi , 2 different floors first one was 12mm hardi over floor boards stuck with rapid and screwed down then ufh cable latexed in with fibre reinforced latex the tiles were also ceramic and cracked through the hardi joints ,mit remedied it by lifting the tiles then put Ditra over the sub floor which was sound but had suffered shrinkage , there was a small leak from the shower seal but not enough to cause the problem I saw,
My guess was the water from the adhesive under the hardi and the water from the latex was absorbed by the hardi and which swelled up the tiles were fitted too soon over the floor as the floor dried the hardi shrunk back and caused the cracking
Second one
12 mm hardi over floor boards stuck with rapid and screwed down with turbo gold screws scrim tape then tiled with rapid floor dropped away about 6mm which was picked up with adhesive cheap ceramic floor tiles and a few cracked
My solution now is to seal hardi both side before fitting with SBR as I believe it swells then shrinks from the water content and use anti fracture matting on softer tiles like ceramic or encaustic
 

John Benton

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From the Hardibacker Website

What is Cement Backerboard?

HardieBacker® is a cement backerboard for tile and stone to be used as a replacement for plasterboard or plywood. It contains MouldblockTM Technology, giving you superior moisture and mould resistance. HardieBacker® provides a dimensionally stable cement bonding surface that won’t warp, swell, rot, or deteriorate even in the wettest conditions. It is available in 6mm and 12mm sheets and provides the best bonding surface for cement based tile adhesive. HardieBacker® 6mm with EZ Grid® has a recessed fastening pattern to make installation even easier. HardieBacker® is the #1 cement board in the world.
 
S

Stef

The Americans hate Hardie for some reason & I've seen posts of people reckoning the same as Gary that it's absorbed moisture.
 

John Benton

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I had one in a very small en-suite, only 2.5m tiled floor area, one the the tiles had a straight hairline crack across it, lifted the tile and it wasn't even on a joint, the 6mm board had just just a fine crack that had transferred through the tile. No other problems just that one tile. Very strange.
 

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