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Discuss Replacing Existing Floating Floor in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

J

jmm

I’m looking to lay porcelain tiles in a kitchen diner (~22m2). I have a floating floor, which is not suitable for tile. I’ve been quotes for Ditra, but Ditra is for horizontal movement. My current sub floor is:

- Bison Block and Beam.

- 20mm insulation

- DPM (blue plastic sheet)

- 18mm WBP tongue and groove

full

I’m planning on removing the WBP, DPM and insulation. And I don’t know if there is a DPM under the Bison.

I considered a bounded screed, but this is likely to be 40mm thick with no insulations (too cold). I only have 55mm from the Bison to the top of the tile.

So I’m looking to replace it with:

- Bison Block and Beam

- Ardex DPM 1 c (just encase)

- Marmox 40mm Multiboard with a flexible adhesive.

- Ditra

The Marmox (and Ditra) will form the vapour barrier to protect the tile.

Would this subfloor take tile? Does any see any problems?


Many thanks
 
J

J Sid

I would change the Marmox to
XP-PRO Boards
For cost reason's, and I have used it for the purpose you need it.
And unless you decide to use ufh I wouldn't use or see the need for Ditra.

Have you considered electric or wet ufh?
 
J

jmm

I also expect the block and bean to be suspended but I'm removing a DPM and feel I should put one back.

I've not considered UFH. Prefer to use the extra depth used by a UFH system for insulation and to ensure the floor doesn't move. I still like the idea of Ditra to create a vapour barrier and protect against horizontal movement. The room is 6m x 3m. So...

- Beam and Block
- Ardex DPM 1 c
- XP Pro Board
- Ditra
- Porcelain tiles

I would still use a flexible adhesive to bond the XP-Pro to the DPM and therefore ensuring its not a floating floor. And that the XP-Pro will not create a cold bridge?
 
J

J Sid

I also expect the block and bean to be suspended but I'm removing a DPM and feel I should put one back.

I've not considered UFH. Prefer to use the extra depth used by a UFH system for insulation and to ensure the floor doesn't move. I still like the idea of Ditra to create a vapour barrier and protect against horizontal movement. The room is 6m x 3m. So...

- Beam and Block
- Ardex DPM 1 c
- XP Pro Board
- Ditra
- Porcelain tiles

I would still use a flexible adhesive to bond the XP-Pro to the DPM and therefore ensuring its not a floating floor. And that the XP-Pro will not create a cold bridge?
XP-pro boards need priming on all sides and can then be stuck down to make a none floating floor.
If you use the Ditra as a vapour barrier tape the joints
 
J

jmm

XP-pro boards need priming on all sides and can then be stuck down to make a none floating floor.
If you use the Ditra as a vapour barrier tape the joints

With the Ditra I was considering using waterproof points both on the floor and up the walls (just behind the skirting boards). This would be like how my DPM is currently fitted.

Would not prime the floor rather than the board? I was thinking about using Ardex P4 primer on the DPM.
 
J

J Sid

Prime the floor with what Ardex and your adhesive company recommend.
Prime the boards to so adhesive will stick to it
 
J

Just Rizzle

take up every thing, tank out floor or apply 2 coats of sbr 1st coat 1/3 2nd coat at 90 degrees to first coat 1/1
leave to dry stick down 20mm wedi board lay another layer of 20 mm wedi at right angles to the 1st then tile on top. easy peasy.
 
J

jmm

take up every thing, tank out floor or apply 2 coats of sbr 1st coat 1/3 2nd coat at 90 degrees to first coat 1/1
leave to dry stick down 20mm wedi board lay another layer of 20 mm wedi at right angles to the 1st then tile on top. easy peasy.

What's the benefit from using two boards over 1 40mm board? Is this to remove the lateral movement or part of the waterproofing?

And are you suggesting wedi board to remove the need to prime the boards?
 

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