NoMorePly to new floor for Tiling - fixing advice - TilersForums.com

[ShaunH]

Hi all, I want to tile over a completely new floor. New floor joists have been installed with new 22mm flooring sheets over.
I’m thinking I need to install 6mm NoMorePly then tile.

I’m assuming the following: -
1) PU adhesive and cement screw fixing for the NoMorePly?
2) primer NoMorePly?
3) lay tiles using flexible adhesive?

Or could I just
1) screw down NoMorePly (no adhesive)
2) no primer, just lay floor tiles on top?

The two small rooms are approx 2.5m2

Thanks all!

 

[valianttiling]

Me personally? Sbr the new floor, tile mat (prefer ditra) and tile onto that. Makes life a lot easier when you change them.

 

[ShaunH]

Me personally? Sbr the new floor, tile mat (prefer ditra) and tile onto that. Makes life a lot easier when you change them.

What is sbr?

I’m a DIY by the way and I would never have thought of using a mat! I don’t have the large roller but is this needed?

 

[valianttiling]

So, the sbr primes and seals the timber substrate, and the matting effectively acts as a flexible substrate over the floor, so if there's movement in the timber subfloor it should be absorbed by the matting. It is the best option by far. You can put tile backer boards down, like hardie backer, some new builders use it, but I've been back to a few doing remedial where there's been movement and grout joints have cracked and occasionally tiles debonded. If you use matting allow for 5mm, that's about 3mm for matting and a couple of mm for adhesive.you can sbr the timber and tile straight on it but I'd only advise that if you haven't got the height to use matting.

 

[ShaunH]

So, the sbr primes and seals the timber substrate, and the matting effectively acts as a flexible substrate over the floor, so if there's movement in the timber subfloor it should be absorbed by the matting. It is the best option by far. You can put tile backer boards down, like hardie backer, some new builders use it, but I've been back to a few doing remedial where there's been movement and grout joints have cracked and occasionally tiles debonded. If you use matting allow for 5mm, that's about 3mm for matting and a couple of mm for adhesive.you can sbr the timber and tile straight on it but I'd only advise that if you haven't got the height to use matting.

Thanks for the info thank you! Much appreciated.

If you can indulge me, would this work; using thin plywood over the 22mm boards, “plenty of nails”, unibond then tile?

 

[Jcshutts]

I used a lot of products from STS who manufacture no more ply etc. the advice they give around their product range has been invaluable and they generally have something for everything. I wanted to install UFH on an upstairs floor which is joisted and there cement boards , adhesive , tanking solutions, shower back boards, all worked a treat and the tiled floor is perfect!
(Admin edit; removed email as it might spammed on here use the forum private conversations to share deets)

 

[valianttiling]

Thanks for the info thank you! Much appreciated.

If you can indulge me, would this work; using thin plywood over the 22mm boards, “plenty of nails”, unibond then tile?

God no, I've done remedial on them for bellway homes, loads of grout cracking and tiles debonding.

 

[Jcshutts]

God no, I've done remedial on them for bellway homes, loads of grout cracking and tiles debonding.

I removed the floorboards and replaced with STS cement boards. No movement and no cracking

 

[Jcshutts]

I removed the floorboards and replaced with STS cement boards. No movement and no cracking

Then sbr primer, then dietre matting and a flexi adhesive for tiles on top