How do you set out a full bathroom ?

[Leatherface]

Guys - Bathroom walls ?
just out of curiosity - what methods do people use to set out ? How do they decide where to put their first course of tiles ?
I have my own method & know it works. This discussion may enlighten a few of the new guys out there

 

[yoza 114]

set out from a focul point window bath toilet all depends on lay out ov room. then measure tile + grout line then set out top 2 bottom 2 check out the cuts in corners + top + bottom

 

[Concept PHT]

Pick a spot, drop the tile on it and mark the wall. Then get your laser level and mark the room perimeter out. Work your first course strictly to that line.

The check the spirit of that first course. If all ok (it should be), bang em on all day long!!

Factors affecting : cuts around windows / end cuts. - Obviously adjust accordingly. Using a home made tile staff will quickly identify these areas anyway.

Plus, I always wip the basin and toilet out then put it back all sealed and piped in correctly.

For the perfect job!!

 

[yoza 114]

dont ucheck your coner cuts

 

[Concept PHT]

Yes I do, as it says in the description. Using a tile staff will enable you to work out where the best cuts are. Or you can do it the hard way and mark the tile across the wall / floor to see where the best cut is.

I forgot to mention about the bath too. Best to go a full tile from the bath upwards wherever possible.

Well thats what I do anyway...

 

[Leatherface]

Well here's how I do it.

1. Mark a straight line around the room at any height - usually half way. This line is the datum line ( or reference point )
2. Find the highest ceiling point & lowest floor point - First to the ceiling - use a staff and go around the room at 2 ft intervals, marking the staff where it meets the line at every point. You will end up with a series of marks on the staff -the distance between lowest & highest is the amount that your ceiling runs out. Repeat for the floor.
Knowing this will enable you to make sure that the cuts at ceiling & floor do not end up as sliver cuts.
3. Make a staff with tile & grout lines for vertical set up.
4. Choose a point where you would like to start tiling.
5. Mark staff against datum line from this point & go around the room checking what size of cuts there will be at door, window, shower, ceiling & floor height.
6. If you are not happy with any then adjust accordingly until you are happy. You will then know ( & be able to explain to the customer ) - why you have started there. It is always nice to start full tile around the bath - but not at the expense of having, for example a tiny raked cut at ceiling height.
7. Use staff also to check horizontal cuts.

Start tiling in the knowledge that there will be no nasty surprises along the way.

 

[georgetknight]

how do you set out floors then to ask the question

 

[kapitan]

Well here's how I do it.

1. Mark a straight line around the room at any height - usually half way. This line is the datum line ( or reference point )
2. Find the highest ceiling point & lowest floor point - First to the ceiling - use a staff and go around the room at 2 ft intervals, marking the staff where it meets the line at every point. You will end up with a series of marks on the staff -the distance between lowest & highest is the amount that your ceiling runs out. Repeat for the floor.
Knowing this will enable you to make sure that the cuts at ceiling & floor do not end up as sliver cuts.
3. Make a staff with tile & grout lines for vertical set up.
4. Choose a point where you would like to start tiling.
5. Mark staff against datum line from this point & go around the room checking what size of cuts there will be at door, window, shower, ceiling & floor height.
6. If you are not happy with any then adjust accordingly until you are happy. You will then know ( & be able to explain to the customer ) - why you have started there. It is always nice to start full tile around the bath - but not at the expense of having, for example a tiny raked cut at ceiling height.
7. Use staff also to check horizontal cuts.

Start tiling in the knowledge that there will be no nasty surprises along the way.

ffs what do you do on day 2??? :wink_smile:

 

[Leatherface]

What do I do on day ? - I don't understand question.

Floors - I use two straight edges and a Rubi square - find the best line to take - off units or wall - figure out best line. Then use staff on floor to determine cts.
It doesn't matter if there are 10 rooms going off each other - I square off into each room - draw a line. Then with my staff work out where my cuts are in each room. Adjust - if there are to be any small cuts I decide where they will go.
Simple

 

[Concept PHT]

I think he means it will take him all day to do that Nick lol

 

[Leatherface]

Oh I geddit - practice makes perfect - it doesn't take that long wehen you've been doing it for awhile. Anyway, as you know, time spent in preparation saves time in correcting mistakes later.
Have you got that disc yet ?
Give me a bell if you want one ? Just need digi photo's & text
Cheers Nick

 

[Dan]

The key to setting out is to know exactly where every cut will be and what size approx. The methods of doing this have changed a few times over the years and now there's a few ways of getting your first tile in place but really, aslong as you know you're not going to be snipping away bits of tiles for the whole job trying and testing everywhere, you should be fine.

Generally on bathroom walls you've got the bath, window, maybe the basin as your main guides trying to get each of those to look spot on, like there's no better setout. Then genrally you're adjusting those slightly to make the internal corners fit in well etc etc.

I find.

 

[Leatherface]

Yes I agree.
If you have to have small/sliver cuts - then you should know & decide where to put them. this should not happen by accident if you have set out correctly

 

[Traxman]

Leatherface, it sound like you have been trained to the british standards methods.

I nearly purchased a stanley set square but thought it was too big.

 

[Leatherface]

Oh I've been rumbled :icon9:


A bit about me....

I am now the other side of 40 years old. And prior to tiling I had been in the Direct Mail Industry ( Junk Mail ) for around 18 Years. My last position was as a Production Manager in a busy factory which sent out over 2 million letters a week. It was a well paid job, I earned between 30 - 35k a year.
Anyways. I have a good mate who fits kitchens & bathrooms, one weekend he wanted a hand tiling a kitchen, so I went along to help. Liked it & decided I wouldn't mind a change of career. So I spent 12 months working weekends, holidays & sickies doing as much tiling as I could with him. My mate advised me to go on a course - so I looked on the internet. Went for 5 day course.
As I had done some tiling previously I was able to take away & use certain things that I learned that I felt to be of benefit - setting out was the main one. I still use this method & find it to be excellent. I left my job 2 years ago & became self employed.
I have since worked with many other tilers, learning tips from them & passing on my own. I am always busy & have never ever advertised.
I hope that I have already demonstrated that to some degree I know what I am talking about when it comes to tiling. This is not to say that I don't still have things to learn - I am always willing to learn & embrace new ideas & methods - If they are of benefit to me.

Regards

 

[sparky]

SO DO HAVE YOU AN NVQ IN TILING NOW OR ARE YOU JUST TRADING PRIVEATLY BECAUSE READING YOUR POST YOU SEEM TO KNOW YOUR STUFF .I AM GOING ON A 5 DAY COURSE ASWELL AND HOPING FOR A CAREER CHANGE ASWELL AS I WAS ONE OF THE MEN WHO WAS DELIVERING ALL YOUR JUNK MAIL IA M A POSTMAN AT PRESENT BUT CANT BE ARS*D WITH THESE EARLY RISES TO DELIVER MAIL NO BODY WANTS ANYWAY:sad_smile:

 

[Leatherface]

No oficially recognised qualifications.
Learn as I go, ask lots of questions, use Technical Dept at Mapei if not sure.
Always try to do things the correct way & use correct adhesive.

 

[Concept PHT]

Best way to go. Thats exectly what I do too. Although an NVQ is very soon on the cards.

 

[Leatherface]

I agree, an NVQ is nice to have, but not essential.
I have never been asked for proof of my qualifications. My work speaks for itself.

 

[Concept PHT]

Essential for big contract work though (CSCS), time is running out....

 

[jamesy07]

Leatherface, you don`t fancy doing a short video clip as how to set out, using the method you use, be good if you could

 

[jackdempseys]

Leather Head You Seem To Be Scared To Get Your Nvqs And Certs, So What Is It With You,are You Like My Grandad Who Goes Throught Life With A Grandfather Pass.
Certs For People In Offices Are A Rose Bush.but People Like You And Me Only Get Them Thou Doing The Job Right.if You Can Do That Whats The Worry.

 

[Fekin]

Leather Head You Seem To Be Scared To Get Your Nvqs And Certs, So What Is It With You,are You Like My Grandad Who Goes Throught Life With A Grandfather Pass.
Certs For People In Offices Are A Rose Bush.but People Like You And Me Only Get Them Thou Doing The Job Right.if You Can Do That Whats The Worry.

I couldn't find anything in Leatherfaces posts that suggests he is scared to get NVQ's \ certs.
He was saying that his work speaks for it's self for quality.

 

[Confiteor]

I am using this: Precision Tile - The Ultimate Tile Layout Design Software

I NEVER pay for software, but that was worth every penny.

Measure your walls, key in the size of tile, and you get a perfect representation of how the cuts will look, including grout (which you can set the width of).

You can draw in any features like doors or windows to check how they fit in too.

If starting from the middle would mean a bad cut at the edge, you can move the tile along on screen to a better place.

It also makes working out the number of tiles needed easy.

You can use one of the hundreds of tile sample or even scan or photograph your actual tile to get an even more accurate idea of how things will look.

For you boys in the trade, I reckon customers would be very impressed if at the estimate stage you were able to show them the plan on a laptop screen or printed out.

Might bag you a few more jobs!

 

[Alan.P]

I am using this: Precision Tile - The Ultimate Tile Layout Design Software

I NEVER pay for software, but that was worth every penny.


For you boys in the trade, I reckon customers would be very impressed if at the estimate stage you were able to show them the plan on a laptop screen or printed out.

Might bag you a few more jobs!

Looks like nice little app to have, I like your thinking about a printed copy in with the quote, customer can see a finished job and would be happy I think.

Like you, I don't like paying for my software just trying to get an .....erm, evaluation copy now

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Confiteor]

Looks like nice little app to have, I like your thinking about a printed copy in with the quote, customer can see a finished job and would be happy I think.

Like you, I don't like paying for my software just trying to get an .....erm, evaluation copy now

Thanks for the heads up.

I looked around before buying too, but couldn't find it anywhere.

But it works out at only £12 or so and you get an instant download.

 

[Alan.P]

I looked around before buying too, but couldn't find it anywhere.

But it works out at only £12 or so and you get an instant download.

Mmm, been looking myself with no luck, might have to bite the bullet