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Discuss Help! Tiled wetroom floor looks perfect but grout doesn't dry out! in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

P

Paula

I don't think it is at all likely to fail as a tanking barrier to stop water getting through, (I haven't tried the newer easier to use version so am assuming it is similar to the old). However it is my opinion that it remains slightly compressible under the tiles and this may be why the grout is cracking around the tiles that are stood on most.


So are you saying that you think with Impey membrane there will always be some movement of tiles? How can we stop the cracking happening, then?
 

Rob-Bob

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Hi Paula,
I've just done wetroom and used porcelanosa 'swimming pool' grout (the one which you mix two component and it very hard to clean tile if excesses not removed immediately) and having same issue like you - grout in wetroom area and a one line on tile outside is dark/wet and all dries after few days. I do not think this is acceptable and may cause more issue in long term. My tiles are laid on 18mm plywood and tanking has been done (painting with blue paste), but no wet foam tray has been used below tiles-tiler did nice fall with tile adhesive. Water doesn't get below floor so tanking luckily works. I was hoping to hear that epoxy solved the problem, but not long term ... what about using flexi grey silicone instead of grout, would that work or this is silly idea?
I've seen other wetroom and all seem to be dry and nobody has any issue apart of you and now me ;)
Thank you for your thread.
 

Rob-Bob

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btw, I was doing same investigation as you and the only way water can get behind the tiles are through a) grout or b) holes for glass screen frame (but this is unlikely as frame has been siliconed around unless water is going on the glass and fall between glass and metal frame on the wall, but glass sits on clear seal so unlikely).
 
P

Paula

Hi Paula,
I've just done wetroom and used porcelanosa 'swimming pool' grout (the one which you mix two component and it very hard to clean tile if excesses not removed immediately) and having same issue like you - grout in wetroom area and a one line on tile outside is dark/wet and all dries after few days. I do not think this is acceptable and may cause more issue in long term. My tiles are laid on 18mm plywood and tanking has been done (painting with blue paste), but no wet foam tray has been used below tiles-tiler did nice fall with tile adhesive. Water doesn't get below floor so tanking luckily works. I was hoping to hear that epoxy solved the problem, but not long term ... what about using flexi grey silicone instead of grout, would that work or this is silly idea?
I've seen other wetroom and all seem to be dry and nobody has any issue apart of you and now me ;)
Thank you for your thread.

Hi Rob
sorry to hear you're having the same problems as me. I'm a bit confused, though: from what you say, it sounds like the Porcelanosa grout you used is an epoxy grout, which shouldn't change colour on wetting as far as I know. It is completely waterproof, so any water would just run off the surface rather than soak in, as is the case with normal grout. If the dark colour disappears on drying, then I don't think the epoxy is working properly, or you have another sort of grout maybe?

I know my thread is long and convoluted, but if you look back through it you'll see that we solved the original wetting problem by taking up the drain surround. It turned out that the tiler had not put enough adhesive under the metal drain cover, so water was able to get through the grout and pool under there. Perhaps you could you have the same problem?

I know some drains have seep holes built in, so that water that gets through grout and under tiles can seep into the drain rather than pooling. It could also be that these have been blocked by adhesive by the tiler. It may well be worth investigating.

If neither of these are problems in your case, then the water must be getting under the tiles through small cracks in the grout or around the drain. Are you sure there aren't any tiny cracks?

I've also wondered about using sealant, which would certainly be flexible enough to eliminate cracking, but I don't think it would look very nice, and am not sure how long it would last in such a wet environment.

You don't say whether your wetroom is on a solid or suspended timber floor. If it's on a solid base I would definitely recommend using proper epoxy grout, as it would not change colour at all on wetting (although I'd recommend eliminating the two possible drainage problems I mentioned first, as it's not good to have pools of water under tiles).

If your wetroom is on a suspended timber floor, then I'd steer clear of epoxy, given my experience, as it obviously can't cope with the movements that occur when someone is showering.

Hope this helps!
 
T

Tilerdurden

Possibly done the grouting in 2 applications and made a weaker mix which could cause variations in colour due to drawing out pigments and also weakens the grout strength. Could have dried at different rates. May possibly have cleaned grout too soon and water has hit it and discoloured and weakened the finish.

Reapplication of grout is most likely your best route of action. Should really be done at tilers expense.
 

Rob-Bob

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Hello all,
Apologise for being quiet for 4 months, but I was undertaking a lot of trials with wet room.
1. pouring water into basket - floor still wet after a week so potential issue with piping or shower faucet
2. not using shower for a week - floor still wet so potential issue with piping or shower faucet
3. put silicone over grout in wet room - wet room dry, but grout outside wet room became wet so potential issue with piping or shower faucet
4. decided to open shower plate and reconnect all fixture - floor still wet so potential issue with piping or shower faucet
5. spotted couple water drops from shower valve, about 1 drop per minute - change valve cartridge for £25, but this didn't fix the issue, when I turn valve water drops were coming out.
6. decided to replace whole shower mixer unit, went for Vado due to design and 10 years guarantee - knock some bricks behind the bathroom, plumber to deinstall old and install a new mixer, then plaster, skimming and painting.
7. removed silicone which I put over grout
8. removed epoxy grout from wet room floor - extremely hard/almost impossible. Luckily silicone soften the grout and I managed to remove about 6 inches of slightly cracked grout.
9. 6 weeks on and voilà - floor outside wet room dried and there is no sign of any water penetration in wet room.
I hope it will stay like this forever now and epoxy won't crack after while (it didn't cracked at all at other side of wet room from time of wet room build so it should be fine)
Couple things to note:
1. tanking is a must - tanking paint became a layer of plastic foil which really stops water penetrating floor or wall
2. buy good shower mixer and do pressure test after installation when all pipes are still visible and easy to fix
3. epoxy grout - I've heard it's not for wood subfloor, but Porcelanosa advised me to buy that type of grout for my wood floor. Epoxy grout is really a pain to apply, but it seems to work. I am still curious why grout was wet when water was underneath the tiles, but since new mixer was installed then grout is dry and stop water going behind tiles?
Thank you, hope someone would find this helpful :)
 
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Just throwing in my 2 cents worth here but wondering if it could be something as simple as the adhesive not being cleared from grout joints? Showing in places and barely being covered in others? When I tile formers it does get messy (I over butter the tile to ensure a 100% bed). Raking that grout out will soon reveal if this was the case, either way wouldn't do no harm.
 
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Doh! Sorry posted a reply after only reading the 1st page didn't realise this topic now appears to be resolved. Ignore my previous post, and hopefully all stays well.
 

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