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Discuss Hardibacker Or Orbry? in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

widler

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The idea of the addy is to fill voids under the floor, not straighten it, folk make things up as they go along on here , what do you do, dot and dab the bloody thinks, we are making the floor a surface to tile onto not straighten like drylining, if it needs straightening, you slc it, **** , though, I'm a plasterer, I should be drylining the floor, I'd be good at that
 
O

Old Mod

The idea of the addy is to fill voids under the floor, not straighten it, folk make things up as they go along on here , what do you do, dot and dab the bloody thinks, we are making the floor a surface to tile onto not straighten like drylining, if it needs straightening, you slc it, **** , though, I'm a plasterer, I should be drylining the floor, I'd be good at that
What are u talking about! That's nonsense!
U really do get ur knickers in a twist on here lately Craig!
Not the person I remember!
If u have a straight board and u fill the voids with adhesive you're straightening the floor!
By the very words 'FILL THE VOIDS!' You're straightening the floor!
A void is a dip in the floor is it not!
So if u fill that void, u've straightened it!
I never once mentioned LEVEL did I!
So by that rationale, u lay your Hardie in wet SLC do u!
And if u read my post more carefully, it says 'the way I LOOK AT IT'
It wasn't a definitive answer!
 
P

p4ulo

I would use either, both will achieve the same.
Hardie should be screwed when adhesive is wet. The screws hold the board down, the adhesive fills the voids, they both work together and it should be done wet to squeeze the adhesive down tight, otherwise if you were Hardie-ing over uneven boards, you'd have to slc before laying hardie? and you wouldn't screw through slc would you? Also, doing it dry stand the risk of de-laminating the adhesive / hardie bond, surely?
 
P

p4ulo

Here you go @Lakey - direct from their website:

OrbryTM Boards are ideal for fixing floor tiles to timber, screed and
concrete floors. Fully waterproof, they can be used to create an
insulated tanked wall and floor system ideal for wet rooms.
When used with electric under floor heating systems, OrbryTM
Boards
will increase the efficiency of the system by reducing heat
loss to the surrounding environment, significantly reducing your
electrical consumption. OrbryTM Boards are suitable for overlaying
with ceramic tiles or stone.*
TIMBER FLOORS
1. Fix and level any loose floor boards. Floors must be stiff with
minimum deflection under load.
2. Spread a coat of rapid-setting cement polymer modified fast
setting cement based adhesive onto the floor and lay the OrbryTM
Boards into the adhesive. Then mechanically fix with OrbryTM
Stainless Steel Screws and OrbryTM Backer Board Washers. (see
fig.1) Boards should be laid in a broken bond pattern.
3. When fixing to dry areas, apply OrbryTM Self Adhesive Scrim
Tape
to all horizontal and vertical joints using a thin layer of
cement based tile adhesive and a float trowel (see Fig.2).
When fixing over timber the minimum board thickness is 6mm.
 
P

p4ulo

And for Hardie:
4. Install HardieBacker® to subfloor
• Apply a gap filling bed of non-flexible tile adhesive to the
subfloor using a 6mm notched trowel.
• Embed HardieBacker® with a sliding motion firmly and evenly
in the wet tile adhesive.
• Use the EZ Grid® fastener pattern as a guide. Fasten
HardieBacker® with specified nails or screws every 200mm
over the entire surface. Keep fixings between 15mm from
board edges and 50mm from board corners.
• Set heads of fixings flush with the surface without overdriving.
 
P

p4ulo

Interestingly, neither say - wait 3 hours for the adhesive to dry then screw down?
Although it doesn't say it, surely the adhesive should be wet when fixing down?
 
O

Old Mod

Well that's exactly right P4ulo,
It doesn't say mechanically fix in to WET adhesive.
That's why it was an opinion, and not a statement of fact!
 

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