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Discuss HardiBacker & Floor Level? in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

R

RandyC

So I've got a kitchen dining room which I want to tile all the way through. The kitchen is concrete base and the dining room is floor boards.

I plan on putting 6mm HardiBacker Board on the floorboards, but that will raise up the dining room by 6mm above the kitchen base. The concrete is sound but do I need to use SLC on the kitchen to raise it to the same level, or I've seen people talk about adhesive beds can be different thicknesses depending on the trowel so could that be an option as it's 'only' 6mm? The kitchen area is around 18sqm.

Also is this flexible adhesive suitable? There seems to be no end available and I've read that SPF is ideal for HardiBacker tiling, which this seems to be:

Thanks!
 
Agree with above, once you tile the HB board you will increase the height by at least 3mm more to the underside of the tile, so you would be at least 9mm low on the concrete. The last BSI note I saw said adhesive should not be more than 3mm in depth. ( Calm down boys, don't shoot the messenger) Adhesive bags may state that they can be used up to 20mm, Ignore this, in very localised areas I.E replace 1 small tile kinda stuff. a good SLC is the way to go mate. Also fix the board very well, my preference is to screw the floor boards down, de-nail of course, and glue the HB down and screw to the manufacturers instructions. ( Just my preference here, if it goes wrong its mighty expensive and all the tech advisers will find a way to blame you for not wearing the right deodorant when you tiled it.)
 
H

hmtiling

Agree with above, once you tile the HB board you will increase the height by at least 3mm more to the underside of the tile, so you would be at least 9mm low on the concrete. The last BSI note I saw said adhesive should not be more than 3mm in depth. ( Calm down boys, don't shoot the messenger) Adhesive bags may state that they can be used up to 20mm, Ignore this, in very localised areas I.E replace 1 small tile kinda stuff. a good SLC is the way to go mate. Also fix the board very well, my preference is to screw the floor boards down, de-nail of course, and glue the HB down and screw to the manufacturers instructions. ( Just my preference here, if it goes wrong its mighty expensive and all the tech advisers will find a way to blame you for not wearing the right deodorant when you tiled it.)
Sorry for picking you up here but the 9mm shout is a little misleading as once the other side is tiled it will be a 6/7mm descrepancy. Therefore 6/7 slc needdd not 9.
Fix the hardie as per manufacturer spec, slc the concrete and use a soft joint or expansion joint where the 2 meet. If you can work the expansion on a tile joint do so.
Also, go to a tile shop for a decent s1 for the timber side. Most c2's will be adequate for the concrete side
 
I was referring to the adhesive under the tile being 3mm, so 6mm HB 3mm adhesive to me give 9mm required to underside of tile on the concrete surface, could be wrong.
You and me are either going to have to sleep together of just call it a day.

To the original poster, you will need to find a solution to the transition joint, it will crack unless thought about carefully. Could be wrong again of course.
 
H

hmtiling

I was referring to the adhesive under the tile being 3mm, so 6mm HB 3mm adhesive to me give 9mm required to underside of tile on the concrete surface, could be wrong.
You and me are either going to have to sleep together of just call it a day.

To the original poster, you will need to find a solution to the transition joint, it will crack unless thought about carefully. Could be wrong again of course.
9mm difference if no adhesive under the tile on the concrete side
Did you read my post about a soft/expansion joint?
 
107364

This of course assumes that the floor boards and the concrete are level to start with.
Just for giggles
 
D

Dumbo

Thanks for the replies fellas, I appreciate the help. SLC is the way to go by the sounds of it. I'll pick up some decent S1 for the floorboard side.

I assume flexible grout will also need to be used on the floorboard tiled side, aswell as where it joins with the concrete?
Flexible grout is a must . Where the two floors meet you will need something more flexible than grout i.e. Colour matched silicone
 

RandyC

TF
2
88
UK
Flexible grout is a must . Where the two floors meet you will need something more flexible than grout i.e. Colour matched silicone

Perfect, ok good job I asked that, I will be using a grey grout is that something you can pick up easily from a tile store, the silicon I mean, or is it just general no nonsense silicon type stuff?

Also I assume it's best to get the Hardiboards down and then sort the SLC up to the same level?
 
Last edited:
D

Dumbo

Perfect, ok good job I asked that, I will be using a grey grout is that something you can pick up easily from a tile store, the silicon I mean, or is it just general no nonsense silicon type stuff?

Also I assume it's best to get the Hardiboards down and then sort the SLC up to the same level?
Most grout manufacturers do a matching colour silicone grout . Yes Hardie first the level up to it .
 
Morning guys, the point I was trying to make, which I think may have been lost in the trail is that the total depth of product on the concrete side, from top of concrete to underside of tile may be 9mm once you take into account 6mm HBB and 3mm under tile adhesive upon that. If you were to try to tile 18m2 in one operation with adhesive on the concrete side, to me that is 9mm. If there were a problem and the adhesive rep cut a cross section through tile, adhesive, and concrete, they would indeed see ?mm.
We are on the same side no.
The laughable thing is that these same manufacturers imply no more than 3mm total depth to avoid "stress" but say on the bags "upto 20mm"
Sorry foe typos, its early.
 

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