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Discuss Floor Levelling small area to tile in the UK Tiling Forum | Tiling Advice area at TilersForums. USA and UK Tiling Forum

J

john56897452

Hi
I am finishing off the en suite and have about 2 - 3 sqm of floor tiles to lay. Don't want to spend out on an expensive levelling system I,ll probably not use again for such a small space so I have seen the screw down type (orange topped looks like you add at every intersection of tiles), and a wedge set with pliers. Which would be preferable for the job?

I know the area is small but I would like to make a good job of it if either choice above is any good?

Cheers

John.
 
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Ttt1601

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The main thing is don't be expecting clips to do all the work for you. The prep work to make it a flat surface to Tile on, still has to be done well, the clips are there to maybe do the last 1-2 mm of adjustment AT MOST then hold the tiles until they set, make sure you have good coverage under the tiles. What size are they? Either system used properly will be absolutely fine for the job
 
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T

Tilerdurden

The main thing is don't be expecting clips to do all the work for you. The prep work to make it a flat surface to Tile on, still has to be done well, the clips are there to maybe do the last 1-2 mm of adjustment AT MOST then hold the tiles until they set, make sure you have good coverage under the tiles. What size are they? Either system used properly will be absolutely fine for the job

I concur.

Poor preparation precipitates **** poor performance.

Amy more than 3mm out of tolerance then adequate measures should be taken to ensure flatness.
 
OP
J

john56897452

Thanks,

Using 6mm hardie backer screwed to the floor so should be flat. 275 x 360mm tiles so not many to fix.

John
 
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T

Tilerdurden

Thanks,

Using 6mm hardie backer screwed to the floor so should be flat. 275 x 360mm tiles so not many to fix.

John

Should be... Have you checked with a straight edge mate. Never rest on your laurels. If the sub floor under the hardi backer is off then this will transfer. If it's timber tongue and groove you can almost bet your house on it. I'd suggest an uncoupler with the installation. Just my 20 pence worth. Good luck mate :thumbsup:
 
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Tilerdurden

Uncoupling membrane. Bal do one called rapid mat or there's schluter systems ditramat. Both good quality. If you're concerned on finished floor heights bal only comes up 1mm thick whereas Schluter will add 3mm plus the adhesive which will add around another 1mm They help to negate any movement in your subfloor which can transfer to top layer of tile causing stress at grout lines and cracking of tiles. They won't cover for vertical deflection but help with lateral movement. To make sure there's no vertical movement ensure your subfloor is screwed down securely. A good test is to jump up and down on the floor to make sure theres no spring in it. These should be installed with problematic floors. Tbh I use them in pretty much every installation I do. Belt and braces every time. You can pick them up at a tile outlet. Find an outlet that sells it by the metre as it comes in 30m rolls. Which would be a tad more than required. Put it down with a 4mm notch trowel and can be tiled over immediately.
 
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OP
J

john56897452

Cheers for this mate. Would this go under the hardibacker onto the wooden floor or replace the hardiebacker...........probably a stupid question.
 
OP
T

Tilerdurden

No mate just lay on top of hardibacker and crack on.

I'd check for flatness prior to installing. You may need to level your floors with self levelling compound before applying your uncoupler. Bal level Max is one of the better ones on the market with decent flexi properties due to fibre strand tech. Can level up to a depth of 80mm in one sitting and is ready to accept light foot traffic usually within 3 hours and largely depending on product depth, ambient and surface temperatures. Best of luck mate.
 
OP
J

john56897452

Quick question.......looked at Bal rapid mat on line. Do you just lay this on top of the hardie or glue it down, then apply flexible tile adhesive before laying tiles?
 
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Tilerdurden

Put rapid mat down with tile adhesive. Use a 4mm trowel for this mate. Then tile as usual over top. Hope this helps.
 
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N

Natwasere

Im struggling to understand why use hardie backer plus decoupling mat? You know hardy backer done to spec is a decoupling system? Just get a straight edge and see how flat it is. Fill with self levelling compound if required and then tile with or without them clips (no experience on them things)
 
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Tilerdurden

Im struggling to understand why use hardie backer plus decoupling mat? You know hardy backer done to spec is a decoupling system? Just get a straight edge and see how flat it is. Fill with self levelling compound if required and then tile with or without them clips (no experience on them things)

Good luck with that one.....

You do know hardibacker is a tile backer board not an uncoupler. Hardibacker screwed to a timber floor will move with the floor, any lateral movement due to timber expanding and contracting naturally (as timber does) will affect the hardibacker. Hence uncoupling membrane systems to negate transference to tile finish.

Hope that helps in understanding why use both. The backer board will give a solid background over timber sub floor but certainly won't provide adequate protection from movement.
 
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Natwasere

Good luck with that one.....

You do know hardibacker is a tile backer board not an uncoupler. Hardibacker screwed to a timber floor will move with the floor, any lateral movement due to timber expanding and contracting naturally (as timber does) will affect the hardibacker. Hence uncoupling membrane systems to negate transference to tile finish.

Hope that helps in understanding why use both. The backer board will give a solid background over timber sub floor but certainly won't provide adequate protection from movement.

Matting provides you with limited latereral movement, it says that in most of their own specs. In fact I think that alot of them spec a ply overlay first By using hardibacker board you are infact decoupling it from the floor beneath. To use both is madness both cost and height wise, and whilst I love decoupling matting it's not better then hardibacker boards imo.
 
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Tilerdurden

Matting provides you with limited latereral movement, it says that in most of their own specs. In fact I think that alot of them spec a ply overlay first By using hardibacker board you are infact decoupling it from the floor beneath. To use both is madness both cost and height wise, and whilst I love decoupling matting it's not better then hardibacker boards imo.

How do you fix your backer boards?
 
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Tilerdurden

Using flexi thin set and screws 25mm. As per their own instructions.

So if the boards are screwed down to the subfloor tell me how that acts as an uncoupler? See where I'm going here..? :grimacing: We all have our own methods I will be sticking with mine.
 
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Natwasere

So if the boards are screwed down to the subfloor tell me how that acts as an uncoupler? See where I'm going here..? :grimacing: We all have our own methods I will be sticking with mine.

You dont screw every inch. There is a certain amount of flex in adhesive plus then board then more adhesive. Whilst you have a point about how much it decouples it by I'm still saying if it's already boarded why would you mat it also? Do you board and mat most timber floors? I highly doubt that. It's one or the other usually and which one you choose is irrelevant.
 
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Tilerdurden

Depends on area being tiled. If it's wet areas I'll board and mat regardless of material type. If it's tongue and groove dry area it'll get both. Dry area I'll use mat with chipboard.
 

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