Concrete panels on bathroom walls? - TilersForums.com

[Jonathanb]

Ah well now going on the training day at Porcel-thin. Going with my mate who’s a bathroom fitter

John..

 

[Old Mod]

Ah well now going on the training day at Porcel-thin. Going with my mate who’s a bathroom fitter

John..

Good for you John.

Great bunch of people, Ray is a great laugh and extremely knowledgeable.
Just don’t let your mate say “ I’ve been Tiling for ....... ....,, yrs, and I know what I’m doing!”
God help him if he does.

Watch and listen carefully and you’ll do just fine.

And of course come back and tell us how you got on.

 

[Jonathanb]

I will warn him 10 hour round trip in a day should be fun...

John..

 

[Old Mod]

I will warn him

Rays a 30yr hard core contract tiler, he’ll eat your mate alive, you’ll enjoy watching it tho!

Yeah long day that one.

 

[Jonathanb]

Bathroom wall tiles all stripped off. Most of the walls are paramount which the plaster on them has remained intact.
Putting a straight edge across the walls, non are flat. About a 8mm gap over a 1.8m straight edge. Can I use 12mm or 9mm Kerdi board dot and dabbed on the walls to flatten them, then fix them with cavity fixings.
The tiles I’m going to be using are 1200x600 Porcel-thin.

Cheers
John..

 

[Old Mod]

Having never had to deal with these paramount boards, my knowledge is more than limited.
Is it not possible to remove only the bathroom side and insert studwork in its place?
With 300 centres you can fix a 12mm board direct to stud work.
I know it’s probably a large amount of work, but I wouldn’t want to be dot and dabbing over plaster. It has a very low bonding strength to plaster board, of only 20kgm2, if you attempt to dot and dab more boards on to it and then add the weight of tile and adhesive, I’d imagine you would soon surpass its limit.
A porcel thin tile and adhesive is the wrong side of 12kgs, and it’s only 0.72m2

 

[Jonathanb]

I was going to take one side down on the main wall as I was expecting it to be damaged removing the tiles. The problem now is the head and sole plate don’t run straight, if I remove them the wall will collapse.
Also it’s all the walls, one has a combinboiler on the opposite side
I was thinking of dot and dabbing it with about twice as many dabs as standard then a cavity fixing through every one
I suppose I could pull the one side down on the main wall add stud work then fit the Kerdi board on to the studs with tile adhesive to straighten it, then use screws and washers.
John..

 

[Old Mod]

You need as little deflection as possible. Thin tile bends a great deal, and must be well supported.
Bedding the tiles out is not an option.
Thinking again about it, maybe your first idea may be a better route, it would certainly add ridgidty to the wall, as long as you’re confident you can make it structurally sound and that the whole thing won’t pull away from the head and foot plate.

 

[Jonathanb]

I wasn’t going to bed the tiles out, I was going to bed the Kerdi board out on the stud work.
I’m sure tile adhesive and masses of cavity fixings will work

John..

 

[Jonathanb]

Went on the course, left at 5am, got back 9:30 pm.. now started putting things back together.
Marked all the holes for the cavity fixings and put them all in.

John