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200sqm floor, prep discussion

Discuss 200sqm floor, prep discussion in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

Doozy

TF
9
213
Got a site meeting next week where the installation of a 200sqm floor will be discussed.

There are a handful of smaller rooms involved on the periphery, but the main area is basically T shaped. The bottom of the T is the entrance hall at around 26sqm, which opens up on the top line of the T as a rectangular room of around 80sqm.

This is a sand and cement screeded floor over water piped UFH.

The builder says no expansion joints are required and the screeder says no decoupling is required either.

I obviously have my own thoughts on the matter, but I wondered what the consensus was on here
 
Got very similar sized floor to do in 3 weeks over a flowscreed (anhydrite). 800x800 porcelain. Using anhyfix to tile. Is a decoupler required? And hard or soft expansion joints and where? Am going to see it this week but would imagine there is no expansion joints in the screed. Any information/advice greatly appreciated.
If your using anhyfix by tile master And you want to decouple. Use anhyfix to lay anti fracture matting. Then use setaflex on matting. Cheaper way of doing it.
 
Thanks. Is a decoupler required? We use them with natural stone but from researching am led to believe with porcelain and a flow screed it isn't necessary.....?
It' not really necessary but it' belt and braces. If you think you should use it then do. It will cost you more if the floor fails.
Personally I would Matt it and tile it.
 

Chris Gibbs

TF
Arms
177
608
North wales
Thanks. Is a decoupler required? We use them with natural stone but from researching am led to believe with porcelain and a flow screed it isn't necessary.....?
I would use an anti fracture mat. Anhydrite floor isn't prone to big movement but when heating goes on underneath you cant be too careful. it also gives the customer confidence in your methods too knowing you're covering all bases.
 

Chris Gibbs

TF
Arms
177
608
North wales
on an Anhydrite floor

IMG_2077.JPG IMG_2083.JPG
 
D

Dumbo

I would use an anti fracture mat. Anhydrite floor isn't prone to big movement but when heating goes on underneath you cant be too careful. it also gives the customer confidence in your methods too knowing you're covering all bases.
I believe from figures quoted by @Ajax123 on a previous thread unless I misunderstood that the porcelain expands more than the anhydrate
 
Thats great. Thanks guys. Will see the builder/owner this week and suggest all possibilities to him. We done a 150m2 porcelain one before Xmas with Ditra but that was on sand/cement screed. Have been using BAL rapid Matt on the last few floors (40 m2 plus) onto nu heat gypsum boards with wet ufh screwed down to glued and screwed caberdeck stuck with mapei S2 and then tiled with Weber s1. Floors seemed really solid. Time will tell....... Thanks for your knowledge guys
 
Got a site meeting next week where the installation of a 200sqm floor will be discussed.

There are a handful of smaller rooms involved on the periphery, but the main area is basically T shaped. The bottom of the T is the entrance hall at around 26sqm, which opens up on the top line of the T as a rectangular room of around 80sqm.

This is a sand and cement screeded floor over water piped UFH.

The builder says no expansion joints are required and the screeder says no decoupling is required either.

I obviously have my own thoughts on the matter, but I wondered what the consensus was on here
how long has the screed been down
+
 
ok, so similar situation i found myself involved in.

270m2 ground floor house. anhydrite screed. few cracks appearing now in screed as UFH has been turned on (even thou the laitance hasn't been took off yet, thats another story)

tiles being used are 22.5x85 wood planks.

having just costed the expansion strips and matting, customer isnt happy with extra costs......

so what to do? No decoupler and use expansion strips? Or decouple and no expansion strips?
 

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