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Discuss Tanking Junction in the Tanking and Wetrooms Forum area at TilersForums.com.

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Hi guys

Just like your opinions on tanking onto the top of a shower tray. I currently seal the tray against the wall, mid way down the thickness of the tray. Then seal along the top of the tray and wall. Let that go off. Then tank onto that sealant followed by then placing the 'bandage' over the tanked sealant and wall. Then another coat of tanking. Then once tiled the third bead of silicone is put between the junction of the tray and now tiles. Never had a problem but am just interested in how others do it. I do not like using any plastic beads. Thanks!
 
T

Time's Ran Out

We make sure the walls are waterproof wedi or similar, waterproof tape the internal corners and any joins, rubber silicone to the tray, tile the walls, then rubber silicone the tray and corners again in a colour to match the tiles.
Jobs a good un.
 
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We make sure the walls are waterproof wedi or similar, waterproof tape the internal corners and any joins, rubber silicone to the tray, tile the walls, then rubber silicone the tray and corners again in a colour to match the tiles.
Jobs a good un.
Thanks timeless John. Yep obviously I do as you say in terms of the rest of the tanking ' tape internal corners ' etc. But do you lip the tape or bandage over the length of the tray and silicone though? Or do you just paint the tanking down onto the silicone?
 
F

Flintstone

I would always choose to tank the wall to the floor, then have the tray fitted and siliconed to the wall. Then tile as usual. Just taping the corner joint at the time of tanking.
 
W

White Room

Thanks timeless John. Yep obviously I do as you say in terms of the rest of the tanking ' tape internal corners ' etc. But do you lip the tape or bandage over the length of the tray and silicone though? Or do you just paint the tanking down onto the silicone?

I lip the bandage onto the tray but have a certain way of doing it.
 
L

LM

I use classi seal on the tray or bath, silicone it to the wall, paste the wall, overlap with tape then tape the verticals, then re paste, never had a failure.
 
S

Stef

I put masking tape round the tray about 10-15mm from the wall then bring my corner tape over the top of this.
Once tiled I run a Stanley knife in at a slight angle at the bottom of the tile & remove all excess.
 
J

J Sid

if can throw something in the mix here ;)
you have tanked the shower, it's corners and it junction with the tray perfectly. For whatever reason water gets behind tiles, the substrate is protected.
where does the water go?
 

Dan

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The theory is that if you've completely tanked the walls, to the tray / bath, and the internal corners. Then the water is only going to get in through the grout, but only at a rate as fast as it can also get out when you've finished the shower / bath. If for some reason you ran water down the top for hours then it'll be forced out the bottom by gravity as only so much water can get behind there. So only a thin bead of silicone is required, and it's really just for show.

Just for those wondering how to get the corner tape onto the shower tray etc

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOxmDKMWDec


Clearly you only need enough on the tray to seal it, but not too much that when you tile, you still see it. So the thickness of your tile is about the right amount you feed it onto the tray.
 
J

J Sid

Dan, I beg to differ:(
I believe water would work it's way down then left or right till it finds a route out. This would be outside the tanked area and down to the floor.
 
W

White Room

Why not run a vertical bead of silicone behind the tiles as you fix where the shower frame will be.
 
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S

Stef

if can throw something in the mix here ;)
you have tanked the shower, it's corners and it junction with the tray perfectly. For whatever reason water gets behind tiles, the substrate is protected.
where does the water go?
Julian I've asked this question previously & it was stated to let any water flow back out into the tray then there must be weep holes in the bead of silicone at the bottom.
 
F

Flintstone

If you have water running into the joints and down the back of the tiles your screwed anyway.
 
J

J Sid

Julian I've asked this question previously & it was stated to let any water flow back out into the tray then there must be weep holes in the bead of silicone at the bottom.
a hole would be logical if there was no threat of water being sucked in.
missed any threads where this was talked about, will have to find them and have a read.
 

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