Hardibacker Tile Backer Board.....any Questions??

[Hardibacker Rep]

Hey all!!

Im Ash the Hardibacker Rep for the North of England and Scotland.....if anyone has any questions about installation, technical details or would just like to know more about our range of products please dont hesitate to get in contact.....

Ash

 

[Olz]

Hi mate, welcome to the forums,

Ill start us off,

Whats the weight rating per m2?

Cheers

Oli

 

[Hardibacker Rep]

Hardibacker 500, 12mm x 1200 x 800, can hold up to 45kg per sqm of tile in a wall application.....ideal if your going to be using your heavier wall tiles....and really easy to install! :yes:

Skimmed plasterboard can only hold 20kg per sqm and plasterboard 32kg per sqm...

If you want any more info keep the questions coming!!!

 

[Grace'sDad]

Love it, like it, use it a lot - But why does it have to be so blinkin' heavy???!!!

Can you make a lighter version but retain the strength?

 

[NW tiler]

Here's a couple of question for you, Hardibacker rep....

1.What screws do you recommend for floors? THe ones I've used so far stick up and have to banged in with a hammer to get them level with the backer board!!!

2. On tuesday Im installing backerboard onto the walls around a bath/shower area. How do I fix it to the wall, on my own! Again, what sort of fixings do I use. Your website states "dowls", what are they? The wall is both plasterboard and brick.

For materials I'm in the North West, CTD is the tile shop I use. Have the usual DIY shops and Topps tiles nearby.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Saltire69]

How do you get the hardi screws flush? Used 2 drills(battery and 1 plugged in) on them and still can't get them flush.

 

[Spud]

backer boards arent normally recommended for following drainage falls in floors why is this and is yours okay for this type of application ??

 

[Raja]

Hey all!!

Im Ash the Hardibacker Rep for the North of England and Scotland.....if anyone has any questions about installation, technical details or would just like to know more about our range of products please dont hesitate to get in contact.....

Ash

hi ash and welcome

good product u got there mate shame about the people who retail it for u topp's

 

[White Room]

With the 6mm board on a bathroom floor would you reccomend a spf or 2 part for putting the tiles down

 

[CJ]

He's legged it now

Scared him off :lol:

 

[Hardibacker Rep]

We are actually the lightest cement board on the market.....products like aquapanel are far heavier!

Its the main reason we have the boards the sizes they are....to keep the weight down and make it easier to carry round site etc etc

 

[Hardibacker Rep]

Here's a couple of question for you, Hardibacker rep....

1.What screws do you recommend for floors? THe ones I've used so far stick up and have to banged in with a hammer to get them level with the backer board!!!

2. On tuesday Im installing backerboard onto the walls around a bath/shower area. How do I fix it to the wall, on my own! Again, what sort of fixings do I use. Your website states "dowls", what are they? The wall is both plasterboard and brick.

For materials I'm in the North West, CTD is the tile shop I use. Have the usual DIY shops and Topps tiles nearby.

Thanks in advance.

We do our own range of screws...there availble through Topps, CTD etc

If you dont have access to those screws...we recommend galvanized stainless steel or brass screws or nails (nailing the board down may solve your screw problem???) which you can get through most builders or plumbers merchants....

In regard to your wall installation....we recommend installing the board onto timber batterns every 400 centres then a fixing every 200 centres down the battern...again with the same type of fixing.....our board is a complete replacement for plasterboard so if any is on the wall rip it off and replace it with Hardibacker to give yourself that back up against failures...

If you have any more questions please dont hesitate to send me another message!

 

[Hardibacker Rep]

How do you get the hardi screws flush? Used 2 drills(battery and 1 plugged in) on them and still can't get them flush.

They should screw in and be flush quite easily....

What type of screw you using??? Nailing the board down is another option....

 

[Hardibacker Rep]

backer boards arent normally recommended for following drainage falls in floors why is this and is yours okay for this type of application ??

Are you meaning in a shower tray type application??

 

[Holohana]

With the 6mm board on a bathroom floor would you reccomend a spf or 2 part for putting the tiles down

Bearing in mind that Hardibacker doesnt "strengthen" the floor and you should have already made sure that there is no deflection in line with BS (No more than 3mm over 4 metres) then you can use single part flexible.

Hope that helps Whitebeam.

Andy

 

[Spud]

Are you meaning in a shower tray type application??

yes this type of application

 

[Sean Kelly]

Hello Ash, I tiled a shower last week. The builder put the backerboard on the wrong way round......i.e. I had to tile over the yellow sticker that read 'This side down'!!! Should this make any difference? Thanks in advance. Sean

 

[newbie2]

How about that old chestnut - Tanking?
Does Hardibacker require sealing, or like Aquapanel, is this not recommended and does it affect the 'warranty'?

I'm in the process of installing a new bathroom and have decided to tank the panels, so would be interested to get your view on this.

 

[DHTiling]

Ash.. don't forget if nailing it down they do need to be roofing type clout nails and not just any nails.....!!!!

 

[grumpygrouter]

Hello Ash, I tiled a shower last week. The builder put the backerboard on the wrong way round......i.e. I had to tile over the yellow sticker that read 'This side down'!!! Should this make any difference? Thanks in advance. Sean

I don't think this is significant. I believe that one side is smooth just to give a "nicer" surface to tile on to.

 

[Matthew77]

:welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2:

Hi Ash

I'm wondering what the spec of these boards are compared to ply regarding rigedness & thickness?

I have a floor that is chipboard ontop of existing floorboards,the chipboard is rotted out so i'm going to take that up, screw all the existing floor boards down & was hoping to replace it with 6mm hardibacker & tile straight ontop of that, would that be rigid enough?

Thanks

 

[Hardibacker Rep]

I don't think this is significant. I believe that one side is smooth just to give a "nicer" surface to tile on to.

Yeah your right...its just a "nicer" surface to tile onto but both are fine....

 

[Hardibacker Rep]

:welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2:

Hi Ash

I'm wondering what the spec of these boards are compared to ply regarding rigedness & thickness?

I have a floor that is chipboard ontop of existing floorboards,the chipboard is rotted out so i'm going to take that up, screw all the existing floor boards down & was hoping to replace it with 6mm hardibacker & tile straight ontop of that, would that be rigid enough?

Thanks

As long as the floor is stable and there will be little movement as in line with the building regs (3mm over 4qm) then it will be fine....you also have to put a layer of adhesive on top of the floor boards (under the hardibacker) as a void filler....

The nature of our product, being cement based, makes it a much more stable product to tile onto...however it isnt there to strengthen the floor...the floor must be suitable before hand....

 

[Hardibacker Rep]

How about that old chestnut - Tanking?
Does Hardibacker require sealing, or like Aquapanel, is this not recommended and does it affect the 'warranty'?

I'm in the process of installing a new bathroom and have decided to tank the panels, so would be interested to get your view on this.

We dont recommend tanking our board....it will affect the bond between the board and the adhesive....theres not much point anyway as our board will "soak" up any water and will not be affected by it...

:yes:

 

[Mark B]

We dont recommend tanking our board....it will affect the bond between the board and the adhesive....theres not much point anyway as our board will "soak" up any water and will not be affected by it...

:yes:

Hello,

I'm in the same position. I have just boarded out a shower area with backer board and was intending to apply a BAL WP1 kit. Why doesn't it need tanking?

Whilst the board is not affected by moisture I didn't think that it provided a waterproof barrier.

Mark

 

[grumpygrouter]

Hello,

I'm in the same position. I have just boarded out a shower area with backer board and was intending to apply a BAL WP1 kit. Why doesn't it need tanking?

Whilst the board is not affected by moisture I didn't think that it provided a waterproof barrier.

Mark

This is one of those funny situations in my opinion. A waterproof coating is there to stop water penetrating to a substrate that will be damaged by water i.e. plasterboard, plywood or mdf for instance. If the substrate will not be affected by contact with water and as a consequence the tiles stay put what is the actual pount of tanking. OK seal the joints but why seal the rest? If a potential leak through the tiles is so serious that it will start to "flood" through the substrate the volume of water would probably stay in the tanked area anyway overflow and run out of the door.....maybe?

Just a thought, what do others think?

 

[Mark B]

This is one of those funny situations in my opinion. A waterproof coating is there to stop water penetrating to a substrate that will be damaged by water i.e. plasterboard, plywood or mdf for instance. If the substrate will not be affected by contact with water and as a consequence the tiles stay put what is the actual pount of tanking. OK seal the joints but why seal the rest? If a potential leak through the tiles is so serious that it will start to "flood" through the substrate the volume of water would probably stay in the tanked area anyway overflow and run out of the door.....maybe?

Just a thought, what do others think?

Grumpy - Thanks for the explanation.

I've got to fill and tape the joints anyway and the shower tray has already had one seal of silicone applied (between the tray and the backer board).

I think I'll give the WP1 a miss on this one and keep it for another job

Mark.

 

[J4CK THE RIPPER]

What is the best way to cut curves in Hardibacker?

 

[Grace'sDad]

What is the best way to cut curves in Hardibacker?

Don't!!! :lol:

 

[CJ]

What is the best way to cut curves in Hardibacker?

Tile blade fitted to a jigsaw.

Smells a bit like November 5th after mind.........and the blades don't last long.

It is good stuff, but a sod to cut.........even with the recommended scoring blade thingy sold by Hardibacker :whatchutalkingabout