Handling Uneven Front Door - TilersForums.com

[ddo101]

Hi all - I'm in the midst of a DIY tiling project, laying Original Style Victorian floor tiles on my front door step to match my path. The main issue is the bottom edge of my original Victorian door is not at all straight and has evidence of lots of hacking over its long life. I removed some quarry tiles that were previously on the step, a bodged job from a couple years ago, chiselled up all the old adhesive, primed and levelled with an appropriate self levelling compound, and now planning my tiling. The Original Style tiles are 9mm (unglazed ceramic) and the gap under my front door varies from 15mm on the left to 19mm in the middle to 11mm on the right. I know ideally, the door would come off and be trimmed straight, but it's a step too far for me (no-one to lend me a hand and I don't want to risk throwing my hinges and latch out of alignment - I'm dealing with very old and imprecise timber all over the place). I think ideally I would have poured a tad more leveller, maybe 2mm more, but the spec is minimum 3mm per pour, so I don't think I can do another layer. My main question is - what adhesive thickness do you think I need to try and achieve and therefore what size notched trowel? ...or do I consider another layer of levelling compound?? Appreciate any advice you can offer!

 

[Dadsiphone]

Hi all - I'm in the midst of a DIY tiling project, laying Original Style Victorian floor tiles on my front door step to match my path. The main issue is the bottom edge of my original Victorian door is not at all straight and has evidence of lots of hacking over its long life. I removed some quarry tiles that were previously on the step, a bodged job from a couple years ago, chiselled up all the old adhesive, primed and levelled with an appropriate self levelling compound, and now planning my tiling. The Original Style tiles are 9mm (unglazed ceramic) and the gap under my front door varies from 15mm on the left to 19mm in the middle to 11mm on the right. I know ideally, the door would come off and be trimmed straight, but it's a step too far for me (no-one to lend me a hand and I don't want to risk throwing my hinges and latch out of alignment - I'm dealing with very old and imprecise timber all over the place). I think ideally I would have poured a tad more leveller, maybe 2mm more, but the spec is minimum 3mm per pour, so I don't think I can do another layer. My main question is - what adhesive thickness do you think I need to try and achieve and therefore what size notched trowel? ...or do I consider another layer of levelling compound?? Appreciate any advice you can offer!

View attachment 123629

Hi, Sid The Tiler here , why not fit a door weather bar to the bottom, finish the floor first then close the door and fit the bar to the door parallel to the floor Good luck

 

[Kevbos]

Hi all - I'm in the midst of a DIY tiling project, laying Original Style Victorian floor tiles on my front door step to match my path. The main issue is the bottom edge of my original Victorian door is not at all straight and has evidence of lots of hacking over its long life. I removed some quarry tiles that were previously on the step, a bodged job from a couple years ago, chiselled up all the old adhesive, primed and levelled with an appropriate self levelling compound, and now planning my tiling. The Original Style tiles are 9mm (unglazed ceramic) and the gap under my front door varies from 15mm on the left to 19mm in the middle to 11mm on the right. I know ideally, the door would come off and be trimmed straight, but it's a step too far for me (no-one to lend me a hand and I don't want to risk throwing my hinges and latch out of alignment - I'm dealing with very old and imprecise timber all over the place). I think ideally I would have poured a tad more leveller, maybe 2mm more, but the spec is minimum 3mm per pour, so I don't think I can do another layer. My main question is - what adhesive thickness do you think I need to try and achieve and therefore what size notched trowel? ...or do I consider another layer of levelling compound?? Appreciate any advice you can offer!

View attachment 123629

If you changed the position of the wood that sits under the door or made it wider and had it cut to compensate for the uneven door this would solve problem , as it is in picture the wood threshold does not sit underneath the door when closed