External Tiling on asphalt balcony - where to start? - TilersForums.com

[roylec]

I have just looked at a job in a flat with a 6m x 3m terrace balcony. The surface is asphalted to protect the flat below, and there are cheap and ugly non-slip concrete tiles applied by the builder about 10 years ago. It looks like they were glued on as they are laid tight to the asphalt with no adhesive layer I recognise. They will probably (hopefully) lift cleanly without damaging the underlying asphalt. These tiles are only 8mm thick (inc. the tread), so I am tempted to lay on top, although I would have to make up the 8mm where the tiles are proud of the edges by about 200mm

The customer was originally going to build a deck on the surface, but doing so would mean raising the floor level by at least 200mm, and that would require a new balustrade. So they have asked me to come back with some options for tiling.

To be honest, I have never tiled externally so I don't really know where to start. My first thoughts would be to quote on natural stone tiles so the surface is reasonably non-slip, and for preperation and laying something like:

- lift the existing concrete tiles;
- repair any damage to the ashpalt with a liquid bitumen.
- seal the floor with a coating of some external product like the old "black jack".
- use a BAL external waterproof adhesive;
- lay as a normal floor and grout with a BAL waterproof.

However, this job makes me nervous, so any advice you have about the approach, treating the substrate and the materials I should use would be helpful. ...and of course any gotcha's to look out for.

 

[DHTiling]

I have just looked at a job in a flat with a 6m x 3m terrace balcony. The surface is asphalted to protect the flat below, and there are cheap and ugly non-slip concrete tiles applied by the builder about 10 years ago. It looks like they were glued on as they are laid tight to the asphalt with no adhesive layer I recognise. They will probably (hopefully) lift cleanly without damaging the underlying asphalt. These tiles are only 8mm thick (inc. the tread), so I am tempted to lay on top, although I would have to make up the 8mm where the tiles are proud of the edges by about 200mm

The customer was originally going to build a deck on the surface, but doing so would mean raising the floor level by at least 200mm, and that would require a new balustrade. So they have asked me to come back with some options for tiling.

To be honest, I have never tiled externally so I don't really know where to start. My first thoughts would be to quote on natural stone tiles so the surface is reasonably non-slip, and for preperation and laying something like:

soz will reply poperly after today full of pop lol lol lol

- lift the existing concrete tiles;
- repair any damage to the ashpalt with a liquid bitumen.
- seal the floor with a coating of some external product like the old "black jack".
- use a BAL external waterproof adhesive;
- lay as a normal floor and grout with a BAL waterproof.

However, this job makes me nervous, so any advice you have about the approach, treating the substrate and the materials I should use would be helpful. ...and of course any gotcha's to look out for.[/quot
----
firstly remove the old tiles and clean the existing substrate, then prime the asphalt with a suitable acrylic primer ( bal bond ,bal apd ) then apply a thinset modified adhesive evenly and apply shluter ditra mat on top , any joints sealed with ditra kerdi band ( to water proof) then apply a unmodified thin set adhesive and tile with required tile choice ( frost proof tile preferably fully porcelain or other vitrified tile.) grout with modified grout.
all adhesives to be frost resistant check manufactures guidelines. To check all specifications the schluter website can provide all of these. The ditra mat is excellent for external applications and any movement joints must be installed in accordance with industry standards. HOPE THIS HELPS.

 

[derekdickinson]

Hi Dave, I have today received an enquiry similar to the one you gave your advice on, the balcony is the same size roughly, although the asphalt has cracked and is leaking to the balcony below causing considerable damage. The customer has concrete paving stones which she would like relaying if they come up ok but I've advised she look at something else, "any ideas" so long as there sand/buff colour it doesnt matter, she also mentioned she likes using the balcony all year including winter and as enquired about some form of heating to melt the snow and keep it clear. I would very much appreciate any guidance you could give as I've never tiled outdoors.
Many thanks Derek.:smilewinkgrin:

 

[DHTiling]

Hi derek..

This info has since been out dated as shluter now advise modified adhesives in the uk..

So if you start a fresh thread then we will advise from that..

 

[Dontiler]

actually i done like that Dave but it did not worked, customers placed heavy flower pods and tiles around sink down, grout lines cracked, i tried all kind of membranes designed especially for asphalt, some membranes was with draining systems, that water can run under the membrane, but still found them not great to use, in summer asphalt gets really soft, and then all problems appeared, i am using now concrete 50mm on top of the asphalt, or there is special concrete in bags premixed which you can lay from 10mm then schluter membrane and tiles. that way worked for me :hurray:

 

[White Room]

I have,nt used Ronacrete sbr on ashphalt but the company it can be used as a slurry Broken link removed

 

[lucius]

Why use Ditra in this situation if there is no movement showing, in fact if there was enough movement showing to warrant it in a balcony ide be more worried about the balcony.
Lucius

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I know Schluter do a balcony system, I have their pack somewhere.

 

[Spud]

Why use Ditra in this situation if there is no movement showing, in fact if there was enough movement showing to warrant it in a balcony ide be more worried about the balcony.
Lucius

uncoulping matting was first designed for balconies as there were so many failures on them it to do with the coeffiecient of expansion ,read Dave's post understanding the tiling shift

 

[lucius]

Hi Gary, i know what tiling shift is and i have done loads of balconies in a harsh climate 40 degrees in the summer to minus 10 in winter and never had a problem, as long as it is properly waterproofed and the correct tiles, addy, grout and techniques are used their should be no probs unless there are some underlying faults with the balcony. If i was to use Ditra here i would never get the jobs because of the cost, cant get it here anyway though i will look at this balcony system out of interest.
Lucius.

 

[derekdickinson]

Hi derek..

This info has since been out dated as shluter now advise modified adhesives in the uk..

So if you start a fresh thread then we will advise from that..

Hi Dave I've read some of the replies, but as you say I'll start a fresh thread and see what advice I get.

Cheers, been a bit off weather "cold" and all that rubbish, so couldnt reply sooner. cheers everyone.:8: