Creating an access panel for a bath - Tile Advice

[clenched buttocks]

I wondered if I might trouble you guys with a bit of advice on creating an access panel for a bath.

The existing bath panel is unfortunately is tiled plasterboard. Following a leak it was necessary to remove a section of this panel to get access. Now the problem is resolved I would like to create an access panel. I would presumably need to fix a vertical batten where the cut section ends to support one edge of the new panel. It is probably easier if we were to use a piece of white mdf for this as creating a tiled panel is likely to be rather complicated.

Any information on how to go about this would be much appreciated.

 

[p4ulo]

I would pull the rest of that horrible plasterboard panel off, then put on a new sheet of 6mm Hardiebacker, reinforced with a few wood battens along its length to add rigidity and remove and flex.
Fix in 6 places with mirror screws, then tile (obviously drilling holes in tiles for mirror screws). Maybe use some sexy glass mosaics to turn it into a feature (unless you have some spare tiles).
There are sexy things you can do with Schluter Rema magnets, but I find the disadvantage of making a concealed (invisible) access panel is that in 10 years time, some plumber is not going to know where you concealed it so they will just go smashing in....

 

[AliGage]

I would personally do the whole thing again also. But thats just my preference.

I love tiled bath panels. Adds a real touch if class, and they are really simple to do.

I wouldn't however use 6mm hardie, but date I say it I'd actually use WBP marine ply.
Build a complete box frame (similar to what you have) and put in plenty of vertical support batons. These will add strength fir when people Luke to sit in the side of the bath.
Set out your tiling before you place the batons and try to set your batons behind any grout joints. This is ideal for when you're leaning on the panel cleaning the shower walls, bathing the kids etc.

Once you've cut your ply to suit mark the nearest baton centres where you may wish to gain access and cut the Ply at these marks.

Fix your panel leaving the cut section in place but unfixed/loose.

Once all tiled you can use silicone on the grout joints (which you can usually natch to your grout colour)
Optionally you can fix the access panel with decorative mirror screws (available at Screwfix) or just stick with the silicone joints, which will hold it.

White tiles with feature decors and grey grout

• AliGage
• Aug 16, 2015
• 1

 

[Spare Tool]

Only thing I would add to that p4ulo is unless the op intends packing the existing frame out or rebuilding it, is to make sure thickness of the cement board is same as what's on now..maybe 10mm hardi might be better if using same thickness of tiles or you could end up with a lip under the edge of the bath. Should really have the new tiles on site to check the depth of them then panel can be built to suit..
Note to the op, MDF won't be ideal as a bath panel...soaks water up like a sponge.

 

[Sam68MvAgusta]

Hi there clenched buttocks, you could try using a german system called schluter, click and paste this link Schlüter ® -REMA - Product data sheet (pdf - 0,1 MB) I've used these a lot and work well and will save you having to pull the rest of the panel off.

 

[clenched buttocks]

The problem here is that a couple of the tiles were lost in action when the section was removed and you can see that some of the remaining tiles are chipped, so it would be necessary to obtain replacements and I do not know if that would now be possible. Also the existing adhesive would have to be removed from the tiles we have and with around 95 tiles this would be a pretty time consuming task.


In the light of this I think we would be better to go for Simon’s suggestion re the Schuter Rema options so I will try and check this out. That said, the other contributions sound really top-notch.


p4ulo: Thanks. I think your point illustrates how essential it is to keep diagram of the assembled construction available before some troglodyte tears it up.


AliGage: Very interesting points, here. Do you go for 9, 12mm WPB? That bath panel looks superb – I’d like to have a bash at that sort of thing if I had more time. But is that a laminate floor? If so, is it the best thing to have in a bathroom.


Andystiletiling: Point understood. I have installed a couple but they require a fair few coats of varnish to make as watertight as possible. Their dependability probably has much to do with the sort of owner’s bath usage. I doubt if they would last long with students etc.


Thanks, again, guys.