This kitchen is not level as can be seen in the attached picture.
6 years ago, the previous tilers of the previous home owners tiled on this floor by using only 1mm tile adhesive by the hallway, 5mm adhesive by the left hand side leg, and 12mm of adhesive towards the rear end leg to make the floor level.
Unfortunately, they used dot and dab, and didn't properly secure the plywood to the floorboards therefore the tiles were moving/cracked/grout crumbling off etc so it now has to be redone.
Assume you have to use 10mm 600x600 porcelain tiles and 6mm backer board how would you tackle this floor if you has to start from the floorboards whilst maintaining the kitchen under the following two scenarios:
1. Using UFH.
By my calculation, the floor height would be as follows:
I am thinking if I got a tiler to go ahead with this option, with the gaps available at the 3 points, this will create a height difference of 16.5mm with the hallway floor, eat into 5.5mm of the left hand size leg and eat into 12.5mm at the rear end leg.
To overcome this I am guessing what this would mean is that at the two legs, the tiles would have to be cut around them, and the kick boards would have to be cut to fit the reduced height. At the hallway end, the floor height difference between the hallway and the kitchen would be 16.5mm and therefore a door transition will need to be used and the part of the door will need cutting too. The floor too would still be un level.
2. No UFH heating
By my calculation, the floor height would be the following:
I am thinking if I got a tiler to go ahead with this option, this will add a mere 2mm to the hallway side, leave a gap of 2mm at the left hand size leg size and leave a gap of 9mm at the rear end leg. I'm assuming those gaps can be filled with a little more tile adhesive when tiling? The floor would then be level.
Are my assumptions and scenarios correct? I would love to get UFH on my floor as this Kitchen room is arctic but I am thinking that the easiest and best option is to retile the floor without it and go with option 2? Or is option 1 possible?
I've been quoted around £2500 for option 1 including materials and labour. I have been quoted around £1200 for option 2.
I will need to pay a little extra for option 1 in top too for a carpenter to get the kickboards and door cut to size.
Can expert tilers here tell me what they would do to tackle this? What is feasible in this scenario? Would you recommend option 1 or 2 or neither?
If I went with option 1, will the un-level floor look obvious considering it is only 11m between the ends?
Really looking forward to your advice
- From floorboard to kitchen leg (white leg bit) towards the back, it is 28mm in height.
- From floorboard to kitchen leg (white leg bit) towards the oven on the left hand side, it is 21mm.
- From floorboard hallway door, it is 17mm in height.
6 years ago, the previous tilers of the previous home owners tiled on this floor by using only 1mm tile adhesive by the hallway, 5mm adhesive by the left hand side leg, and 12mm of adhesive towards the rear end leg to make the floor level.
Unfortunately, they used dot and dab, and didn't properly secure the plywood to the floorboards therefore the tiles were moving/cracked/grout crumbling off etc so it now has to be redone.
Assume you have to use 10mm 600x600 porcelain tiles and 6mm backer board how would you tackle this floor if you has to start from the floorboards whilst maintaining the kitchen under the following two scenarios:
1. Using UFH.
By my calculation, the floor height would be as follows:
- Tile adhesive (3mm)
- Insulation board (6mm)
- Tile Adhesive (3mm)
- Decoupling membrane with 200w UFH cable (5.5mm)
- SLC (3mm)
- Tile Adhesive (3mm)
- Tile (10mm)
I am thinking if I got a tiler to go ahead with this option, with the gaps available at the 3 points, this will create a height difference of 16.5mm with the hallway floor, eat into 5.5mm of the left hand size leg and eat into 12.5mm at the rear end leg.
To overcome this I am guessing what this would mean is that at the two legs, the tiles would have to be cut around them, and the kick boards would have to be cut to fit the reduced height. At the hallway end, the floor height difference between the hallway and the kitchen would be 16.5mm and therefore a door transition will need to be used and the part of the door will need cutting too. The floor too would still be un level.
2. No UFH heating
By my calculation, the floor height would be the following:
- Tile adhesive (3mm)
- Hardiebacker (6mm)
- Tile Adhesive (3mm)
- Tile (10mm)
I am thinking if I got a tiler to go ahead with this option, this will add a mere 2mm to the hallway side, leave a gap of 2mm at the left hand size leg size and leave a gap of 9mm at the rear end leg. I'm assuming those gaps can be filled with a little more tile adhesive when tiling? The floor would then be level.
Are my assumptions and scenarios correct? I would love to get UFH on my floor as this Kitchen room is arctic but I am thinking that the easiest and best option is to retile the floor without it and go with option 2? Or is option 1 possible?
I've been quoted around £2500 for option 1 including materials and labour. I have been quoted around £1200 for option 2.
I will need to pay a little extra for option 1 in top too for a carpenter to get the kickboards and door cut to size.
Can expert tilers here tell me what they would do to tackle this? What is feasible in this scenario? Would you recommend option 1 or 2 or neither?
If I went with option 1, will the un-level floor look obvious considering it is only 11m between the ends?
Really looking forward to your advice
