Discuss 15mm ply on bathroom floor in the Canada area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)

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DavidJ

I've discovered the existing bathroom floor is only 15mm ply. I believe this is thinner than regulation requires. The adjoining chip board on the landing appears to be slightly thicker. The previous owner had laid cheap tiles directly on the ply which, to their credit, hadn't cracked in 4 years so it 'seems' solid.

I have some no more ply to go over it and the mega strength adhesive. Should I bite the bullet and change the floor?
 
D

DavidJ

It's in reasonable nick and luckily there was so little tile adhesive on it that it cleaned up easily. The different level is only with the landing so that's not the issue.

Just not sure if it's solid enough for the NMP and tiles
 
O

Old Mod

15mm ply is minimum thickness for an overlaid floor by BS standards.
So it appears you’re back to Original ply floor, yes?
Easiest and quickest way to check is to place a brim full glass of water in centre of the floor and then walk purposefully and heavily around the glass.
If it spills, way too much movement and will need to be addressed. If not, an overlay of your nmp should be enough to improve its condition.
Never used nmp myself but I believe it to be a cement type board, you can improve its effectiveness by adding screws to the nmp, however, make sure they’re only in the ply, do not go through to the joist beneath, this will negate the purpose of the overlay.

Ok so I just read install instructions, and screws are standard fitting anyway :)
 
D

DavidJ

Hi 3_fall. Thank you for that. The floor passes the test with the glass of water.

Thank you also for the tip about avoiding the joists with the screws.

Do you know what the limit is for flatness of the floor for cement boards? It is flat apart from the last joist towards the door where it drops by approximately 3mm over 300mm (1%). I can't find any technical information online that stipulates what the limit is. I just tried bending a bit of the NMP board by hand and it seemed to have enough spring in it to take up this small deviation.
 
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Dougs Third Go

rather than use the mega strength adhesive I use flexible tile adhesive (and screws), gives more of a solid bed imo, plus by angling the trowel slightly you should be able to make up the 3mm difference.
 
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As @Adey1980 states above our boards would be ideal. We recommend a thin layer of tile adhesive underneath, screw down with 12 x screws and tape the joints with an alkaline resitant tape.

I have attached our brand new installation guide here which may be of use.
 

Attachments

  • 2018 HardieBacker Install Guide.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 24
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Bill

As @Adey1980 states above our boards would be ideal. We recommend a thin layer of tile adhesive underneath, screw down with 12 x screws and tape the joints with an alkaline resitant tape.

I have attached our brand new installation guide here which may be of use.
You guide shows the wall board over plasterboard without joint tape.........
 
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Bill

The picture may not show tape but point 3 'finishing joints' outlines that it is required.

Hope that answers any confusion!
Not really as your guide clearly shows that it isn't being used - it is either a **** up or it isn't really needed and if it is the former then your marketing department needs to look closely at details.

Hope that clears up any confusion with my observations.
 
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The diagram doesn't show any joints and that's why you can't see the tape on the install picture. But it is there in the details and instructions.

Tape is required on all joints in all installations with HardieBacker.
 
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Bill

The diagram doesn't show any joints and that's why you can't see the tape on the install picture. But it is there in the details and instructions.

Tape is required on all joints in all installations with HardieBacker.
Look at page 11.............
 

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