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Tiling on water resistant chipboard
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[QUOTE="SJPurdy, post: 784768"] Thanks for the link. It is the same with countless other manufacturers with their anti fracture/decoupling membranes, they are designed to do a job and allow for (the unspecified) "limited movement" in the substrate. I admit I am a bit sceptical (hence my earlier post) as they have been around in various forms for years and I have seem them not cope when presumably the movement exceeded the "limited movement". I also note that many manufacturer's have designed tile adhesives to fix directly to the boards. The rubber crumb type for example cure to a bed under the tiles that will also allow for limited movement; but I along with earlier posters in this thread would not recommend this method (even though I have fixed many floors this way with no problem). The key with the floor under discussion is to make sure it is firmly screw fixed down to the joists so that the floor is rigid with no discernible movement and that any joints are supported. The original poster can then choose from the methods given above as to how to prepare for retiling. If height is a major issue then the decoupling/anti-fracture membrane way will be the thinnest. Personally I would prefer to overboard with 6mm Hardie backer board (fixed to manufacturer's spec) because I perceive that this gives some increase in rigidity to the floor. I would also consider 6mm "no more ply" (fixed to manufacturer's spec) but only if the surface of the chipboard is very flat. [/QUOTE]
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Tiling on water resistant chipboard
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