Encaustic tiles.

[Mark Handyman]

Hi I've recently laid some encaustic floor tiles. They were kept meticulously clean throughout laying. They were sealed with the recommended sealant, fila fob, before grouting.
However, The cleaner they recommend isn't cleaning them up enough to put a finished seal on. After 3 attempts.( fila ps87).The grout colour is limestone on a patterned white tile.
Any ideas how to give them a good clean? Thanks.

 

[Spud]

any pictures?

 

[Mark Handyman]

See attached pic

 

[Spud]

you could try getting some saw dust from the pet shop mix 50ml of diesel through half a builders bucket of saw dust and rub this into the tiles make sure you ventilate the room and wear gloves it will clean the tiles up nicely

 

[peteablard]

You need to replace the tile that's upside down too, bottom left of the picture...... Sorry, had to mention it!

 

[The D]

you have one up side down

 

[White Room]

You need to replace the tile that's upside down too, bottom left of the picture...... Sorry, had to mention it!

Hawkeye....:lol:

 

[peteablard]

you have one up side down

nice to someone else who's still on the ball at this time of night Deano

 

[Mark Handyman]

OOps, will do cheers

 

[Cement Tile]

Depending on what type of sealant you plan to use, you might consider if the thin residue of diesel that might remain on your tile is compatible. It would not be w/ the sealant we have been recommending lately which is more of a top-coat than an impregnator. You can sand lightly w/ 200 or 250 grit sandpaper. Any courser will leave visible scratches, any finer will polish and can leave polished hot spots which may show later. Just a thought.

 

[RockCeramics]

This looks like cement residue from grouting.

Also,Before sealing how long did you let the floor to air dry before applying sealer?
I would reccommend you use 600 grd sanding paper /wet process, to remove
cement stains.
then clean using a good PH Neutral cleaner.

Also feel that the joints are to big, with this type of floor joints should 1mm as not to disrupt the tile pattern.

 

[Mark Handyman]

Thanks, the joints are only 2mm. Floor not sealed yet, it is grout residue, but cleaning with standard cleaner that was recommend isn't working

 

[Time's Ran Out]

I know that the horse is already down the road, but I'd always seal the tiles prior to fixing so as to stop water ingress and the need to sponge this type of tile. It is like blotting paper and even clean water will change the drying/sealing times. Next time!

 

[Spud]

Depending on what type of sealant you plan to use, you might consider if the thin residue of diesel that might remain on your tile is compatible. It would not be w/ the sealant we have been recommending lately which is more of a top-coat than an impregnator. You can sand lightly w/ 200 or 250 grit sandpaper. Any courser will leave visible scratches, any finer will polish and can leave polished hot spots which may show later. Just a thought.

have you tried the method I recommended ?

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Have you seen the price of diesel?

 

[Mark Handyman]

Not tried the sand paper yet. Just to summerise: tiles were laid unsealed (as per manufacturers guidance), then sealed with fila fob twice, then left to dry for 48hrs, then grouted and sponged, then ps87 3 times, no final sealant.

 

[RockCeramics]

Mark

I have attached doc PDF ( hope it is visable) of the procedure for cement Encaustic tiles hope this helps.

 

[Cement Tile]

Yes, Mosaic del Sur sells cement tiles and recommends the modern-traditional methods of proofing and polishing.
Because of our clientele our situation is different in the USA. We do not have small services who will come out and crystalize your tiles. It is done by huge companies who arrive from across country in a 40 ft truck with ride-upon machines. They crystalize floors in gigantic stores like Home Depot, Costco, Sam's Club, Wal-Mart. They are not interested in small projects.

So we experiment endlessly with top-coat type 'sealants' to provide good protection from stains and as close to a no-care finish as possible. We live in a no-wax society. It is not even sold in most stores here any more. Quite a challenge for us. I suppose this falls under the "transparent composites' mention on the M del S instructions.

I lived in Costa Rica 40 years ago and the floors there were polished daily by the young girls in the family w/ pieces of coconut husk. The floors were gleaming.

As for grout clean-up.

I have not tried the sawdust method but have watched it being used. But it was water-dampened sawdust. No oils.

I am very interested in any advice on no-care top-coat finished for cement tile available in UK.


And the restaurant and home owners are not interested in maintaining a paste wax finish on top of an impregnator so therefore are not protected from stains like red wine. We also find that installers have a more is better approach to impregnators, and the gummy residue left behind grabs dirt over time.

 

[Spud]

I dont do too many jobs using cement encaustic ,last one i did was 3 years ago and i didnt use any tile adhesive to fit the tiles or seal them prior to fixing them , the tiles were soaked in a water butt for 24 hrs then drained and stacked for 30 minutes prior to being fixed in sand and cement the tiles were simply cleaned with a sponge while fixing them but i did use white cement for the bonding slurry here are a few pictures ,the tiles were supplied with an impregnator and i used a paste wax to finish them and used a 15 inch rotary buffer to finish the floor,the tiles did bloom with eflouresence 6 months after they were fixed after a flood from the central heating which was simply removed with coarse wire wool and vinegar here are few pictures of the finished job