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Chimney breast tiles popping - help!

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T

Tony Cooper

Hi All,

Could really do with some help here. A good pal of mine had a fireplace built with an inset fire and asked me to tile the surround from floor to ceiling. He supplied the tiles (purchased off the internet) which were a porcelain metalic 600 x 300. The fire company built the chimney breast with plasterboards fixed to a wooden frame. My pal wanted the tiles to sit perfectly flush with the face of the fire so we had to screw fix 6mm ply to the face of the chimney breast plasterboards (to pack it out to the right level) which meant that when the tiles were fixed there was no lip visible. The plasterboard and ply were sealed with BAL SBR primer and the tiles fixed with Weber.set spf, grout used was Mapei ultracolour plus.

2 months later and he's just rang to say that some of the tiles are popping off. I'm going to have a look tomorrow but I've never had a chimney breast tiling job fail before so I'm at a loss to explain why it's failed. I've attached a few pics so you can see what the finished job looked like.

Anybody had this happen before ? If so, why has it failed ? And the million dollar question, can it be saved without any major surgery ?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Tony
 

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T

Tony Cooper

Thanks for the quick replies fellas.

Del, The fire wasn't switched on at all during the installation, specific instructions from me not to do so to ensure the addy cured correctly.

nybor62, hillhead and whitebeam - the frame was solid and the ply was screwed at 300mm centres.

I'll view it this morning and discuss your feedback with my pal and let yopu know the outcome.

Will let you kow how it goes.....
 
T

Tony Cooper

pjc - The plasterboard and ply were sealed with BAL SBR primer and the tiles fixed with Weber.set spf, grout used was Mapei ultracolour plus.

Just been back to the job and the tiles are solid on the face (not popping individually) but there is a small element of 'bounce' at the top (guess that's where it's hottest). That movement has caused the grout to crack down the full length of the vertical edges at the sides (where it meets the reveal) so it's got to be a problem of the ply moving. I'm gutted. Looks like the lot will have to come off and start again. It's going to be a very costly mistake.

Would hardibacker board have avoided this situation ?
 
P

Perry

pjc - The plasterboard and ply were sealed with BAL SBR primer and the tiles fixed with Weber.set spf, grout used was Mapei ultracolour plus.

Just been back to the job and the tiles are solid on the face (not popping individually) but there is a small element of 'bounce' at the top (guess that's where it's hottest). That movement has caused the grout to crack down the full length of the vertical edges at the sides (where it meets the reveal) so it's got to be a problem of the ply moving. I'm gutted. Looks like the lot will have to come off and start again. It's going to be a very costly mistake.

Would hardibacker board have avoided this situation ?
Never used hardy but yes sealed the back and edges of the ply not the front ? spf rapid ?
 
T

Tony Cooper

Rich - it was a proper kick in the backside, but thankfully my pal can see that it's been a genuine mistake, it would never have been done on purpose and obviously I'll be doing my utmost to put it right at my cost. I'll be losing sleep over this one.

The issue we now have is that when the tiles are off and the ply is removed, it can only be replaced with a cement board that's 6mm thick. Any deeper (10mm/12mm) would mean the tiles would then overhang the fire. They still want it flush at the surface.

I'm just praying that a 6mm cement board (wedi or hardibacker?) will be a much more stable substrate than the ply. What do you reckon the chances of this being ok are ?

Thanks
 
T

Tony Cooper

Dave - Rich. Thanks very much for the advice.

At least I've faced the music today, not stuck me head in the sand and I can now come up with a solution, albeit a costly one for me. But, I'll be a lot more confident now when I re do it.

Hopefully others can learn from this situation before it arises, I guess that's what makes this a great forum.

Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again fellas.
 
J

jay

pjc - The plasterboard and ply were sealed with BAL SBR primer and the tiles fixed with Weber.set spf, grout used was Mapei ultracolour plus.

Just been back to the job and the tiles are solid on the face (not popping individually) but there is a small element of 'bounce' at the top (guess that's where it's hottest). That movement has caused the grout to crack down the full length of the vertical edges at the sides (where it meets the reveal) so it's got to be a problem of the ply moving. I'm gutted. Looks like the lot will have to come off and start again. It's going to be a very costly mistake.



Would hardibacker board have avoided this situation ?


so the cracking is on the internal and external corners , which have been grouted
 
T

Tony Cooper

Hello Jay, the front of the chimney breast is three full tiles wide. The tiles on the sides were then fitted so they'd sit behind the full tile so as you look from the front, you don't see the edge of the side tiles, if you know what I mean. (Should be able to see it on the side proflle pic)

It's where these tiles meet that the grout has cracked, the whole vertical length of the fireplace. The tiles themselves and the grout on the front is fine.
 
T

Tony Cooper

Thanks again lads.

The plasterboard/wood frame that the fire sits in was built by the fireplace company and they wanted a ridiculous amount of money to suppy and fit the tiles. That's why my pal bought the tiles separately and asked me to do the fitting.

It is sound advice ripping the lot down and replacing the plasterbords with cement boards, but the way the gas fire is fixed means it's not feasible. The only thing I can do is remove the tiles and the ply and get the frame back to where it was originally.

I can then follow the majority's advice and start from scratch, this time with a cement board. Lesson well and truly learned.
 
T

Tony Cooper

Interesting update.

Thought I'd speak to Hardibacker about what I need to do and they told me NOT to use their boards in this type of situation. They said that over time it would be likely that the cement board would dry and crumble meaning an unstable substrate. They suggest I only use an insulation board. Fair play to them for honest advice.

I then spoke with Wedi, and they told me that their boards would indeed be fine because of their insulation capabilities, but could only be used if the heat did not exceed 75 Degrees. I now need to find out how powerful the gas fire is. They did mention I might have to use a Fireboard - something I'm unfamiliar with. Anybody tiled onto Fireboards ? Looks like more research tomorrow.
 

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