Bathroom tiles lifted

[eddcottee]

No membrane is needed with those tiles, thin porcelain and stone, yes.
Bad fixing technique, a membrane would not have helped in this situation Edd

Thanks Julian

 

[jobirdster]

Thanks to you all. You have mentioned exactly what the tiler who came to look at it said.

Just so I know, for an expansion gap what does it consist of ? Is the gap filled with silicone or with tile grout ?

 

[widler]

Is there skirting on, is it tiled up to wall tiles , a couple mm gap then silicone or gap than no silicone then skirts
[automerge]1582196135[/automerge]
Just seen its tiled up to tile, so silicone .
I know every customer says it gradually turned the heating on, but hand in hete , did u wack it in full pelt straight away ?
[automerge]1582196175[/automerge]
‘Hand on heart’

 

[J Sid]

Thanks to you all. You have mentioned exactly what the tiler who came to look at it said.

Just so I know, for an expansion gap what does it consist of ? Is the gap filled with silicone or with tile grout ?

5mm gap round room, clean of adhesive and grout then silicon this gap

 

[jobirdster]

Is there skirting on, is it tiled up to wall tiles , a couple mm gap then silicone or gap than no silicone then skirts
[automerge]1582196135[/automerge]
Just seen its tiled up to tile, so silicone .
I know every customer says it gradually turned the heating on, but hand in hete , did u wack it in full pelt straight away ?
[automerge]1582196175[/automerge]
‘Hand on heart’

There is wall tiles on most of the walls, just two areas with a small tile skirt. Rest butt up to wall tiles.

We didn't have the electrics connected for at least 6 weeks, (might have been even longer) after the tiles were laid. We waited ages for the sparky to come back.

Hubby turned on and is sure he put it on 16 degrees at start and then up to 20 .

 

[Smiler5714]

Defo expansion gap needed but also with any underfloor heating you need a solid bed of adhesive. One reason for needing a solid bed is for thermal transfer of heat up from the mat and through into the tile. Air is a very poor conductor of heat and so if you have air trapped between trowel ridges you have a very uneconomical system. Secondly, if the air pockets are quite large you can also have a problem where the heated air expands and again, it could possibly cause lifting of the tiles, especially if they weren't very well bedded to start with.

When solid bedding it's always better to butter the back of the tile.

 

[al strachan]

ignore

 

[Etherglide]

The trowel marks look like !0mm at the most. I suspect not back buttered. Oh, and the heating was turned on too quick. Dismiss an expansion joint at the walls. Most of us, if were being honest, don't tile tight to the wall anyway.

 

[jobirdster]

The trowel marks look like !0mm at the most. I suspect not back buttered. Oh, and the heating was turned on too quick. Dismiss an expansion joint at the walls. Most of us, if were being honest, don't tile tight to the wall anyway.

It took us over 6weeks to have the electrics for the UFH connected. We were advised 2 weeks was enough but we didn't have a sparky on site for ages.

 

[J Sid]

It took us over 6weeks to have the electrics for the UFH connected. We were advised 2 weeks was enough but we didn't have a sparky on site for ages.

Its the turning on and how the heat is ramped up slowly over the next week which is very important after the tiles and adhesive has set.
Turning the ufh on and taking it high straight away could give thermal shock leading to floor failure, looking like your floor looks now