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Discuss Anhydrate floor, best adhesive in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

Ajax123

TF
Esteemed
Arms
931
1,213
Lincolnshire
We got 144 m2 of anhydrite floor area to tile ,,with 600 ,,600 porcelain tiles to go down on it .
We are getting mixed messages as to what adhesive to use , and what sealer to use .
So i thought I would consult the Experts on the Tilers forum for some good old professional advice
Cheers
Avoid cement. Use gypsum. Simples
 
T

Tile Shop

I spoke to one of the guys at BAL, regarding their competitors making Gypsum based adhesives and them not. He said that its not recommended as if it comes into contact with water after it has cured, it can crystallise and blow the tile. They will only ever recommend a cement based adhesive, once Primed with APD.

More commonly than not, the gypsum adhesives are only used in dry areas because of this. But with most grouts being water resistant instead of fully waterproof, when say a kitchen or hallway floor is mopped on a regular basis, then I guess water must go through to some extent???

I also read that this crystallisation can occur when coming into direct contact with cement. So I suppose that's why it needs fully priming. But the grouts are cement based too, so that will come into contact with the adhesive and cause the crystals to form at the edges of the tiles???

For that reason, i'm currently with BAL on this unless someone can put my mind fully at ease that the Anhydrite adhesives won't fail for the above reasons. Are there any precautions that can be made?
 
J

Just Rizzle

I spoke to one of the guys at BAL, regarding their competitors making Gypsum based adhesives and them not. He said that its not recommended as if it comes into contact with water after it has cured, it can crystallise and blow the tile. They will only ever recommend a cement based adhesive, once Primed with APD.

More commonly than not, the gypsum adhesives are only used in dry areas because of this. But with most grouts being water resistant instead of fully waterproof, when say a kitchen or hallway floor is mopped on a regular basis, then I guess water must go through to some extent???

I also read that this crystallisation can occur when coming into direct contact with cement. So I suppose that's why it needs fully priming. But the grouts are cement based too, so that will come into contact with the adhesive and cause the crystals to form at the edges of the tiles???

For that reason, i'm currently with BAL on this unless someone can put my mind fully at ease that the Anhydrite adhesives won't fail for the above reasons. Are there any precautions that can be made?

there boumd to recommend there products, biggest load of drive lfrom bal talk to the guys at tilemaster I can give you there reps number if you contact me via mail box
ive seen loads of cement failures but haven't heard of any when anhyfix used as first choice on anhydrite
 
O

Old Mod

Generally speaking, unusual conditions notwithstanding, u would just prime plaster, and as long as its fully dried, prime as per instructions of your chosen adhesive.
Even if the tiles exceed 20KgM2 unless the plaster is in a bad state of repair, you still wouldn't need to remove the plaster.
U can overboard directly over it.
U would still prime first, then stick the Hardie to it with adhesive plus you would have the addition of mechanical fixing,which is standard practise anyway.
The adhesive is not used primarily to adhere the Hardie,the mechanical fixings are there for that!
The adhesive is used to take up any unevenness in the substrate.
Why would u suggest ready mixed anyway?
I don't actually remember the last time I took a lid off a bucket of adhesive, truly I don't!
 

Dan

Admin
Staff member
5,039
1,323
Staffordshire, UK
This next question may be worth its own thread but will start it here. Do you A... use a gypsum based adh to tile onto plastered walls, B... prime then cement based, or C... rip off the plaster and overboard with hardi? (We are saying the tiles are under 20kg but too big for readymixed.)
Prime and cement-based.
 
M

MW Smith Ceramics

Bal
I spoke to one of the guys at BAL, regarding their competitors making Gypsum based adhesives and them not. He said that its not recommended as if it comes into contact with water after it has cured, it can crystallise and blow the tile. They will only ever recommend a cement based adhesive, once Primed with APD.

More commonly than not, the gypsum adhesives are only used in dry areas because of this. But with most grouts being water resistant instead of fully waterproof, when say a kitchen or hallway floor is mopped on a regular basis, then I guess water must go through to some extent???

I also read that this crystallisation can occur when coming into direct contact with cement. So I suppose that's why it needs fully priming. But the grouts are cement based too, so that will come into contact with the adhesive and cause the crystals to form at the edges of the tiles???

For that reason, i'm currently with BAL on this unless someone can put my mind fully at ease that the Anhydrite adhesives won't fail for the above reasons. Are there any precautions that can be made?
have said the same thing to me, they say prime with apd then go on floor with an S1 and that this is to British standards and that British standards doesn't state anything regarding gypsum based adhesives onto anyhydrate......so I've worked for big tiling contractors and anyhydrate adhesive was never used, always a special primer called PCi 303 I think then s1 but since I've been working for myself I have used tile master anhyfix as screening contractors have actually told me not to use cement bases!!!.....
 

AD Ceramics

TF
Esteemed
Arms
269
758
Manchester
Remove laitence
Prime, then prime again until no more soaks in
Stick down ditra matting will Mapei keraquick and latex additive.
Tile with suitable adhesive for tiles.
Myself this is the way I will always go now, if for a reason there is a failure the from de lamination the ditra will hold floor together.

Edit. Try and be a grown up and write replies without swearing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

AD Ceramics

TF
Esteemed
Arms
269
758
Manchester
Remove laitence
Prime, then prime again until no more soaks in
Stick down ditra matting will Mapei keraquick and latex additive.
Tile with suitable adhesive for tiles.
Myself this is the way I will always go now, if for a reason there is a failure the from de lamination the ditra will hold floor together.

Edit. Try and be a grown up and write replies without swearing.

It was a comment as a joke to all the disagreements about anhydrite screeds the language, I just didn't realise so many of you would be so uptight about it. :fearscream:
 
I

Ian

It was a comment as a joke to all the disagreements about anhydrite screeds the language, I just didn't realise so many of you would be so uptight about it. :fearscream:
The comment is fair enough, the closing line, not so much. Yes we all swear in real life, including me but, there no need for it when writing text. It is in the forum rules that bad language is not permitted in the open forums, this is not because we're all little hitlers, it's to keep the forum friendly and clean for all members and guest to read. Bare in mind that all comments in the open forums can be found via search engines, so could be read by anyone. You have arms access, so if you feel the need to swear in your posts, go and do it in there.
 

faceman

TF
Arms
42
493
Northampton
I have done cement and gypsum and to be honest the cement based floors are the ones I think back to and worry. I once did a repair for another tiler and the cement adhesive just scraped off like new, worrying. Most of my floors are large anyway so I'm now going to start using gypsum under the matting and cement on top. Since you get an easy 9m a bag laying the matting the extra high costs of anhyfix aren't so bad.
 

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