Adding moisture board to walls for tiling

[Leroy Brown]

Hello all.

I am after some advice. I am doing a bathroom job and have discovered that the walls are made of corrugated cardboard with plasterboard either side and then more plasterboard dot and dabbed onto this using multi finish. This extra layer has been removed and I want to add green moisture board to this before tanking. As there is no way to add fixings into this board, what is the best way to stick the boards to the board below? I contacted the company that makes the drywall adhesive a d they said it is only meant for masonry or block walls.

Would a polyurethane foam application be ok as in for holding the tiles?

Here are some images of the walls.

Thanks guys

 

[Spare Tool]

Paramount walls... Well you've come this far so all you can really do now is strip all the cardboard box out and build some studding and add noggins to size of plasterboards..

 

[Boggs]

CLS is perfect for this, strip back the plasterboard and cardboard from one side and stick in 3x2 CLS timber with CT1 or the like and re board.
Won’t bring you out much more than the existing meaning door linings won’t need to be extended.

 

[acaciaguy]

I’m a big fan off of rip out and re do. Best approach here

 

[Leroy Brown]

I would if they had the money. But no as they have been given a amount as a relocation for work.

They would also ask why whe the previous tiles were on solid attached to this you see

 

[acaciaguy]

Are you asking how to tile on the remaining wall but not replacing it to tile on

 

[acaciaguy]

I would if they had the money. But no as they have been given a amount as a relocation for work.


They would also ask why whe the previous tiles were on solid attached to this you see

Because the wall existed to tile on

 

[Leroy Brown]

Are you asking how to tile on the remaining wall but not replacing it to tile on

Asking how to stick moisture board to the remaining wall so I can tank and then tile onto this

 

[acaciaguy]

On the left of that wall is there a stud? The door frame will have one. Take the architrave off the door frame. There could also be a head plate and foot plate ( Wood). Is so fit the plasterboard to these. And get some noggins in across. Do they care how long it will last?

 

[Leroy Brown]

Yes there is a head and a sole plate but like 20mm x 30mm

 

[acaciaguy]

That’s common in the paramount walls. Cut out 3 channels left to right from the cardboard cells. Evenly spaced top to bottom. Fit noggins. Fit plasterboard.

 

[Boggs]

The walls where the facing board has been removed and you only have the cardboard you have no choice but to stick in CLS and board.

The other walls, assuming they are complete, I would prime the existing board and then dot and dab new board over the top with vertical continuous strips at 300 centres and again horizontally at the top, bottom and mid point.
When adhesive has set fix to the perimeter timber with screws and washers.

If you are tanking the wet area I would save the money on M/R board and buy standard board that will free up some funds for the CLS on the other walls.

 

[Leroy Brown]

The walls where the facing board has been removed and you only have the cardboard you have no choice but to stick in CLS and board.

The other walls, assuming they are complete, I would prime the existing board and then dot and dab new board over the top with vertical continuous strips at 300 centres and again horizontally at the top, bottom and mid point.
When adhesive has set fix to the perimeter timber with screws and washers.

If you are tanking the wet area I would save the money on M/R board and buy standard board that will free up some funds for the CLS on the other walls.

The wall with just the cardboard showing has gone. This wall I studded out as I needed to put a shower valve in there and reposition the door.

 

[Leroy Brown]

The walls where the facing board has been removed and you only have the cardboard you have no choice but to stick in CLS and board.

The other walls, assuming they are complete, I would prime the existing board and then dot and dab new board over the top with vertical continuous strips at 300 centres and again horizontally at the top, bottom and mid point.
When adhesive has set fix to the perimeter timber with screws and washers.

If you are tanking the wet area I would save the money on M/R board and buy standard board that will free up some funds for the CLS on the other walls.

Sorry, I started a conversation with you by accident. It was meant to be in here