Wood Effect Plank Tile - 1st row start point?

[#32]

Hi all so I thought I would ask advise on this before starting tomorrow....

Situation is tiling the walls in a wetroom with a wood effect plank style porcelain.

Tiles are 900mm x 150mm x 9mm, and the lay is 1/4 brick bond laid horizontally.

Focal point is the window, however on the other side of the room is a shower niche.

After calculating the various vertical set-ups around the window, and following the layout all the way around the room, it looks to me like the best option would be a full tile off the top of the window. As this give a nice large tile (150mm cut to 127mm) on the top row, the bottom of the window has a thinner strip cut of 30mm (not great) and then running to the floor cut should be 120mm. Also running a full tile off the top of the window brings a nice cut to the shower niche on the opposite side of the room. You can see in the pictures a pencil mark on the top of the window for the layout, and I hold a tile up to give you the idea....

But my question is how do I start? Normally I would batten (using my levels) the first full row up from the floor and leave the bottom row cuts till last on wall. But my concern is that with this tile being the size that it is there is a lot of tiles stacked until I reach the top of the window, and I am worried that I will be "out" by the time I get all the way up there?

Where do you suggest I start and how????

 

[Old Mod]

Just lay your tiles out on the floor with spacers to the correct height of the window from the first full tile off the floor and get a piece of timber and make a staff, marking all the tiles along its length.
Draw your datum line around the room where you want the tile to finish, place your staff on the line and mark the wall at the bottom.
That will give you your starting point.
If you mark the the wall at a couple of extra places up your staff, you can track your progress as you tile up the wall.
If your datum line is level and your staff is marked correctly, you shouldn't go wrong.

 

[Spare Tool]

Make a staff out of a batton, lay tiles on it with a spacer in between and draw a pencil line on it then work it down the wall from the top of the window to give you your bottom row..
You could build that window cill up using plasterboard to make the cut bigger

 

[Spare Tool]

Just lay your tiles out on the floor with spacers to the correct height of the window from the first full tile off the floor and get a piece of timber and make a staff, marking all the tiles along its length.
Draw your datum line around the room where you want the tile to finish, place your staff on the line and mark the wall at the bottom.
That will give you your starting point.
If you mark the the wall at a couple of extra places up your staff, you can track your progress as you tile up the wall.
If your datum line is level and your staff is marked correctly, you shouldn't go wrong.

Beat me too it...but what he said

 

[Old Mod]

Beat me too it...but what he said

haha

 

[Bill]

That wall below the window looks like it isn't flat with the part of the wall to the right, make sure you sort that out too.

 

[#32]

thanks guys! Great help on here as ever

 

[Spare Tool]

Just lay your tiles out on the floor with spacers to the correct height of the window from the first full tile off the floor and get a piece of timber and make a staff, marking all the tiles along its length.
Draw your datum line around the room where you want the tile to finish, place your staff on the line and mark the wall at the bottom.
That will give you your starting point.
If you mark the the wall at a couple of extra places up your staff, you can track your progress as you tile up the wall.
If your datum line is level and your staff is marked correctly, you shouldn't go wrong.

Thought datums and staffs were soooo last year

 

[#32]

That wall below the window looks like it isn't flat with the part of the wall to the right, make sure you sort that out too.

Should be flat as plasterer spent ages getting it right (learning curve there, would of been much more cost effective for me to hardie backer the walls,,,, good job im just learning). If you are refering to the blue section its where I just used up the last of what was in the tanking pot.... you know when you just have some left and your like... "where can I put this last bit"...

 

[#32]

As for datum line running around the room off the top of the window so you guys use levels marked on the walls or a self leveling laser? I was thinking about investing in this for the job;

Stabila LAX 50 Self Levelling Laser

Or the FATMAX version?

 

[Bill]

Should be flat as plasterer spent ages getting it right (learning curve there, would of been much more cost effective for me to hardie backer the walls,,,, good job im just learning). If you are refering to the blue section its where I just used up the last of what was in the tanking pot.... you know when you just have some left and your like... "where can I put this last bit"...

I am just looking at the floor tiles that run into the wall, it looks like the wall has a 'step' in it. Put a straight edge across the wall to check for and bumps and hollows, as with these planks, the flatter the walls, the easier it is.

 

[Spare Tool]

As for datum line running around the room off the top of the window so you guys use levels marked on the walls or a self leveling laser? I was thinking about investing in this for the job;

Stabila LAX 50 Self Levelling Laser

Or the FATMAX version?

It doesn't matter where your datum line is on the wall long as it meets up all the way round, put a mark on the staff and use that mark to set your battons off the datum line

 

[#32]

I am just looking at the floor tiles that run into the wall, it looks like the wall has a 'step' in it. Put a straight edge across the wall to check for and bumps and hollows, as with these planks, the flatter the walls, the easier it is.

Oh yeah I can see what you are referring too now. Just checked it, seams to be nice and flat, however my mosaics do certainly "fluctuate" along that cut line. Could be my silicone line not being to consistent thats giving that impression? As it will be lost by the wall tile I wasnt too concerned with the silicone finish, just thought I would add that in there for the flexibility as I didn't grout to the wall.

 

[Bill]

Oh yeah I can see what you are referring too now. Just checked it, seams to be nice and flat, however my mosaics do certainly "fluctuate" along that cut line. Could be my silicone line not being to consistent thats giving that impression? As it will be lost by the wall tile I wasnt too concerned with the silicone finish, just thought I would add that in there for the flexibility as I didn't grout to the wall.

Have you put the straight edge across the whole width of the wall?

 

[Kyle Knowles]

Is that blue stuff on the wall tanking or a blue primer ?

 

[Chalker]

Off topic. But your tanking needs another coat.

 

[Kyle Knowles]

Off topic. But your tanking needs another coat.

I was thinking the same or even if it's a blue primer I'd give it enough coats to have a even colour every where

 

[Ian]

You mentioned in your opening post that the cut to the underside of the window would be 30mm, there looks to be plenty of room to pick the sill up with a couple of pieces of plasterboard, that could make your cut closer to 55/60mm. I quite often alter the reveals to suit set out, if of course it's possible.

 

[#32]

I was thinking the same or even if it's a blue primer I'd give it enough coats to have a even colour every where

kind of ignore the blue tanking under the window as that was just a bit left in the bucket that I slapped on where the sink is going, just to finish the bucket off, as it doesn't really need it there. But if you are referring to the other 2 (wet area shower) walls, ie where the shower niche is in the pictures then please say. I covered it with 3 coats and didn't spread it thinly and thought that was enough??

 

[#32]

Have you put the straight edge across the whole width of the wall?

looks good with a straight edge on it? Variation must be 0.5mm to 1mm max i guess.

 

[#32]

You mentioned in your opening post that the cut to the underside of the window would be 30mm, there looks to be plenty of room to pick the sill up with a couple of pieces of plasterboard, that could make your cut closer to 55/60mm. I quite often alter the reveals to suit set out, if of course it's possible.

Thanks for the good idea.
Just measured it and could go all way up another 35mm which would actually bring it to match the top section of the window frame. Just mechanical fixings screw the layers of plasterboard together & into the window revel or tile adhesive between each layer as well / instead of? would be a few layers?

 

[Bathfix Bob]

With niches I always plan my tile cuts first and then put the nice to suit the tile set out, its neater and saves you compromising later.
This is with me doing everything in a bathroom.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Is this a DIY project?

 

[#32]

Is this a DIY project?

yes, although I am trying to do it as professionally as possible

 

[Ian]

Thanks for the good idea.
Just measured it and could go all way up another 35mm which would actually bring it to match the top section of the window frame. Just mechanical fixings screw the layers of plasterboard together & into the window revel or tile adhesive between each layer as well / instead of? would be a few layers? View attachment 86278 View attachment 86279

Just stick each layer with tile adhesive. 3 bits of 12mm plasterboard will get you another 40mm or so on that cut under the window, including adhesive.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

yes, although I am trying to do it as professionally as possible

Excellent - good luck!

 

[White Room]

Should be able to lose that when fixing tiles.

 

[emmettcraik]

To answer your previous question about self levelling devices. Yes definitely purchase one. I find my one indispensable. Purchase a good one though. Things to consider: shoots vertical, horizontal and both together - creating a 90 degree angle for you. Specs will tell you it's degree of accuracy over a determined distance so you can compare quality. Ensure it has a locking lever, this will help to maintain its accuracy as it can get knocked on site or during transportation. Mine also has a self calibration system to check its continued accuracy, even then I still get it checked/ serviced every year. It's a big expense but will pay for its self many times over.

 

[LM]

To answer your previous question about self levelling devices. Yes definitely purchase one. I find my one indispensable. Purchase a good one though. Things to consider: shoots vertical, horizontal and both together - creating a 90 degree angle for you. Specs will tell you it's degree of accuracy over a determined distance so you can compare quality. Ensure it has a locking lever, this will help to maintain its accuracy as it can get knocked on site or during transportation. Mine also has a self calibration system to check its continued accuracy, even then I still get it checked/ serviced every year. It's a big expense but will pay for its self many times over.

What make and model do you have @emmettcraik

 

[Kyle Knowles]

To answer your previous question about self levelling devices. Yes definitely purchase one. I find my one indispensable. Purchase a good one though. Things to consider: shoots vertical, horizontal and both together - creating a 90 degree angle for you. Specs will tell you it's degree of accuracy over a determined distance so you can compare quality. Ensure it has a locking lever, this will help to maintain its accuracy as it can get knocked on site or during transportation. Mine also has a self calibration system to check its continued accuracy, even then I still get it checked/ serviced every year. It's a big expense but will pay for its self many times over.

What exactly go's into servicing a laser level ?