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Discuss Who Does The Levelling?? in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

J

JB131

Kitchen Floor.jpg


Half way through a major kitchen refurb. Three rooms into one. Next the floor. The picture shows the current situation. Old kitchen is floorboards with 3mm ply and old lino tiles firmly fixed. A concrete slab has been poured to fill what was a step in larder. Old scullery floor is quarry tiles on ash (solid), and concrete has been used to patch gaps left by old walls that have been removed. Plan is to tile with 67.5x45 porcelain tiles. Overall area is 38m2.

I wanted to know whether it is best to have the floor levelled independently as a separate job, or is this within the capability of most tilers?

Reason for asking is I have had mixed reactions from those that I have invited to quote. Either "The floor needs levelling first", or they seem happy to take it on.

Want to do the right thing. Is the levelling a specialist job, or better for tiler to do it. My nightmare is to have two people blaming each other if the job goes wrong.

Any advice gratefully accepted.
 
L

LM

I've tackled more than a few jobs like this in the past and to date I've had no failures.
The first thing I would do would be to remove any overlaying material right back to the original joists on the 'timber' side of the floor. I would then mechanically fix supports to the adjoining concrete perimetre 'where it meets the wooden section of the floor' at the appropriate height, so as to support a new 18 mm treated tongue and grove ply overlay properly screwed down on top of the original joists, making sure there's no deflection in the floor of course. I would then fill the adjoining gap between the timber substrate and concrete with a flexible gap filler ' silicone is fine'. Next would be to remove any dust dirt or contamination etc from the concrete section and prime accordingly before leveling up with an appropriate slc, one that can go to the depth required.
If on the other hand the wooden substrate is lower after the corrective works then flip the procedure and prime and level up the wooden substrate with a good fibre reinforced slc.
Next I would over lay the whole floor with 'and wait for it' another layer of 12mm treated ply secured using an adhesive like this
Bostik Laybond Wood MS Bond, reason being is that by in its nature plywood is more 'flexible' than most common backer boards and in so can deal with contraction and expansion better than backer boards 'IN THIS INSTANCE'. the fact that its a 'well settled' house will favour this approach.
Then just treat the floor as if you where tiling on top of a typical plywood floor! simple! and its never failed for me!
Any technical advisor would have to advise you to remove everything back to scratch to be by the book and stand over it,but I've done this many time over the last 20 years and as I've said I've never had a failure.

Hope this is of help to you JB 1 3 1
 

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