Tiling a shower room ceiling - Tile Advice

[Frazer Gould]

I am a reasonably competent DIY tiler having fitted out kitchens, showers, toilets etc for my three daughters (and myself when they give me time!) but in all my projects gravity has been my friend. For a change I am gutting a shower / toilet in my own 200 year old house where the walls are up to 100mm off vertical, where there is no DPC and the room is built into the side of a hill!!!
I have solved all those issues but am now faced with my wife wanting the shower ceiling tiled. This is one task I have never done and gravity will now be my enemy!
Any advice on the adhesives to use, the best tile format, and any other tricks of the trade will be most welcome. The area to be tiled is 1200mm x 900mm and it will ultimately have 2 LED lights and an extractor vent cut into it.

 

[Old Mod]

What will you be Tiling on to?
What tiles do you want to use, any in particular?
Would you not want to use the same as the walls?

 

[Frazer Gould]

The ceiling will be green moisture resistant p/b. The walls are Cement board (Hardibacker type) and my wife wants dark tiles on the walls and a lighter colour on the ceiling. The tiles have not been chosen yet so I am wanting, if possible, to get her to pick "easier" tiles for the ceiling. She can have what she likes on the walls and floor!!

 

[Old Mod]

Pb would be ok but your choice of tile would be more limited and it would need to be very well tanked, as steam rises and you run the risk of moisture ingress.
Personally I’d want a wedi style board cut in to the shower ceiling.
Wedi style boards are waterproof, hardibacker style cement boards are NOT and still have to be completely tanked, that will include your walls.
With wedi style the only areas that need tanking are the mechanical fixings (you’ve punctured the coating with screws) and the board joints and wall to floor or ceiling transitions.
Plasterboard can only support 32kgm2 whereas wedi style can support almost twice as much.
Use an S1 class bagged adhesive mixed a little wetter than stated on bag (about 5-10%) and rub the tile in well, this will create suction and it should hold with no problem at all. Remembering to skim the back of the tile with adhesive too, using the flat side of the trowel. If in doubt, prop with something like a plasterboard prop from the floor.
If there is a walkway above the shower, upgrade to an S2 class or even two part adhesive (bottle and bag).

 

[Frazer Gould]

Thanks for the detailed reply. I have not heard of wedi board - who supplies this? Is it expensive?
The previous tiles on the walls were fixed with a tub of ready mixed water resistant adhesive (it was a quick, cheap and cheerful temp fix while other work was done - now it is time to do it properly!) and only came off when the p/b was removed! I did plan to use a "dry" type for the floor and walls as it sets much quicker. What tanking solution would you suggest for the wall as I have bought the cement board. The ceiling can be changed if I can find the board you suggest or I will tank both sides of the board.

 

[Old Mod]

Wedi style, marmox, dukka, jacko, pcs there are many. They’re basically and XPS board with a cement coated board either side. And no, they’re not expensive if you consider the risk you run by using less than appropriate materials to stick to above you or your family’s head!!
Make sure you have the correct washers to go with it also, they’re oversized and prevent screws from pulling thro.
Most dedicated tile stores will sell it, most DIY sheds tend to sell Hardie style boards I think.

The easiest tanking system to use in a diy situation is Ardex WPC in my opinion.
It can be painted or rollered on, it’s colouring allows you to easily see any missed spots and is easy to use.

Do NOT use tubbed adhesive in a tanked area, it may never dry out completely, they’re dispersion adhesives, which means they air dry, this limits tile size to 300 x 300 also.
A bagged adhesive, chemically sets, so has no limits in tile type or size.
Buy a standard set, not rapid, you’re likely to throw more away than you use.

 

[Frazer Gould]

Great help - thanks. I will investigate your suggestions re the tanking, boards etc. When I have obtained the materials is there any special trick to actually fitting the tiles or is it the same as a wall but pushed up so to speak (noting that you suggest a slightly WETTER mix which goes against a couple of U-Tube videos when the suggestion was less water???).

 

[Old Mod]

Slightly wetter adhesive with the tile agitated forward and backward will create suction.
IMO a drier mix could lead to a weak bond because it may not adhere sufficiently.
You must back butter the tile also, this is imperative, it will increase bond strength by up to 50%
You must force adhesive in to the back of the tile with the flat edge of the trowel.
As I’ve said, if you feel unsure about the bond, prop with a plasterboard prop or length of timber, if you also use a baton flat against the tiles, you can support several at once.

 

[Dumbo]

If you are unsure do a test with drier adhesive and with wetter adhesive . Do this by fixing a tile then removing . You should clearly see which gives you a better more complete and even coverage of the tile . Its not just about staying up while the adhesive goes off its about staying up for as long as you keep that bathroom which you will have more success with a complete tile coverage .

 

[Waluigi]

For me personally I’d clad the ceiling in a Cement board, either Hardiebacker, Aquapanel or Pro Ply. I wouldn’t tank it on the ceiling though.

I would get a very powerful extractor fan.

If you do use an XPS board, which I think would also work fine, keep in mind you will have to increase the amount of studs to fix to. Or increase the boards thickness

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Go for Wedi board.
Go for mosaics for ceiling - and if you get permission from your wife make them mosaic mirror tiles!

 

[Flintstone]

Frazer, here's one I did last year using the methods and materials mentioned above. There will be so much humidity up there using an XPS board is a must. Also use a good quality anti mould grout. If there's a good local independent tile shop near by go and see them, alternatively topps tiles although expensive, they sell all that you need

 

[Frazer Gould]

Thanks everyone for your hints and suggestions. This is THE most helpful forum I have ever joined.