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Discuss mosaics - wetroom floor - fall & layout in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

3

#32

So attempting my first wetroom floor.

Tough-X Linear wet room kit bought from the very helpful people at www.TradeWetRooms.com (found through this site)

As can be seen in the pictures substrate is all ready. Tray installed at joist height with 4mm
Jackoboards to match the top of former level, then fully taped and tanked.

Tiles are a 9mm x 45mm x 45mm on a 300mm x 300mm sheet, porcelain, covering the whole floor.

My questions are;

Setting out; as the drain is the focal point should I run off the bottom (closest to door) of the linear drain? This leave a nice 50% cut tile at the door, which will have to have some form of threshold on it as the floor that the tiles butt up too isnt cut level. This works quite nicely at the top of the room as well, after the cut for the drain it looks like a full tile from my dry lay picture? OR would experience dictate a different layout?

Trowel; what size trowel should I use with this tile? As its a mosaic I was going to use a smaller size say a 6mm notch?? But is this too low for a floor, should I use an 8mm? Am using Larson Standard Set Flex white adhesive.

Floor level; So the floor is level, if any thing has a natural fall to the shower tray (pure luck), however I dont know if you can see it in the pictures but the point at which the Jackoboard meets the tray the fall in the shower former drops suddenly especially closer to the drain end. How do I tile this to get a nice consistent fall to the drain? Do I build the former up with more adhesive, but I dont want to lose the built in fall of the former. I wasnt going to cut any of the tiles to match the fall, hence using a mosaic tile...

I thank you all in advance for reading this and any helpful replies are appreciated, didnt want to start until I had some opinions
tile 1.JPG
tile 2.JPG
 
O

Old Mod

Is there a screen going in?
If so, is it to the floor or raised?
At what stage did you use the mechanical fixings?
Was it after taping but before tanking?
 
3

#32

well i dont really want a screen, wife does, so thats open for debate.. I have already bought the screen, its an off the floor 1850mm x 900mm just plain screen, whats your thinking about the screen?

On the adhesive whats recommendations.....
 
3

#32

laid new 18mm floor on joists. then dropped the 4mm Jackoboard on top of flex adhesive, and then mechanical fixing (just for added security), then taping, then tanking, however not many tape over fixings,,,,,, as now I bet your going to say should of done tape then mechanical fixings.... luckily ive use a rubbish load of tanking over all joints (just done another coat not shown in photo), they seam to give you so much in the kit I just keep on adding more coats, luck im not on a time frame with this job...
 
O

Old Mod

You need to tape and tank all mechanical fixings.
Every time you you use a mechanical fixing you compromise the waterproofing, you've just pierced it after all. You need to treat the fixing as a joint.
 
M

MTiler

Dont use a large trowel size with the mosaics to build up the level itll end up messy. Get the level you need first and then use a small trowel size. About a 5mm trowel will be fine
 
3

#32

on the issue of setting out...... does my original dry lay look right to come off the linear drain?
 
3

#32

also what about the sharp level change in the former, what would you guys (and girls) do about that? Allow the tile to follow the sharp fall? Or try to smooth it out.
 
3

#32

Personally i wouldn't use Larsen adhesive for this job it is really poor adhesive

So would you recomend BAL Rapid-Flex Fibre Plus or just Bal Single part flex (both in white I would guess due to the colour of the tile) or a Mapei equivalent?
 

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