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Discuss Mosaic tiling bed depth difference in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.co.uk.

  1. Homer

    Homer New to TilersForums.co.uk

    Location:
    Leeds
    Hi all, enthusiastic newbie here. Plan is to tile a 300 wide vertical strip of 10mmT stone mosaic, where a shower tower will be placed on top.
    I’ve worked out so far that I ought to use BAL mosaic fix with a 4mm notched trowel and firmly bash the tiles in as evenly as poss.
    The problem as I see it, is that larger format 10mm tiles butting up to the mosaic should be bedded with 6/7/8mm notched trowel and so there may be a noticeable thickness difference, a slight step between the two types? Also, do stone mosaics need sealing before grouting?
    Many thanks for any comments, all really appreciated.

     
  2. Best Answer:
    Post #3 by Boggs, Apr 15, 2019
  3. Localtiler

    Localtiler Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    You need to make up the difference to get them to sit flush. There are several ways depending on the amount you need to make up. All stone needs sealing
     
  4. Boggs

    Boggs Professional Tiler

    Location:
    Uk
    Best Answer
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. Homer

    Homer New to TilersForums.co.uk

    Location:
    Leeds
    Thanks for the replies. The mosaic mesh looks to be a great solution and I didn’t know it existed. Cheers!
     
  6. Huddersfield Tiling

    Huddersfield Tiling Huddersfield Tiling

    Location:
    Huddersfield
    First question is are these natural stone mosaics going to be suitable in a wet area? If they can't be grouted, or sealed, then no.
    If using a different thickness in mosaic tiles (thinner than the field tile), then use a plastic backer sheet as suggested, but I always skim the back of these after sticking to cut mosaic sheets, but before fixing with tile adhesive, and allow to set, as otherwise you will find that adhesive grins through the backing sheet and mosaic tile upon final fixing, should they require bedding out to a final depth to meet the finished field tiles.
     
  7. Plan Tec Tiling

    Plan Tec Tiling Administrator Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    Wimborne, Dorset
    Not if you use the dog tooth method
     
  8. Homer

    Homer New to TilersForums.co.uk

    Location:
    Leeds
    The mosaics are ground very flat with quite a high sheen. I’m told they are suitable for wet area but I’m not sure that they are sure, tbh. Any thoughts on a good sealer to use and how often to reapply? Would you go for a different type of mosaic, I haven’t bought it yet.
    Both mosaic and field tiles are same 10mm thickness but as the mosaics are thinner adhesive bed I’m guessing you would see a step without the 3mm backing sheets.
    Plan Tec - dog tooth is V notched trowel?
    Thanks for your advice again.
     
  9. Plan Tec Tiling

    Plan Tec Tiling Administrator Staff Member Trusted Advisor Professional Tiler JOTM Winner Top Contributor

    Location:
    Wimborne, Dorset
  10. Huddersfield Tiling

    Huddersfield Tiling Huddersfield Tiling

    Location:
    Huddersfield
    Once you've skimmed the back of the mosaics with adhesive (which are now glued to a plastic mosaic mesh backing), and let it set, you now have the ability the vary depth of the adhesive trowel you use, or build up the depth if the wall is not flat to meet the field tiles. For example, I would use a 10mm round notched tile to fix the field tiles with cement-based adhesive which would make the field tiles about 13mm or 14mm thick. Then I would use a 6mm or 8 mm square notched trowel to apply adhesive to the backs of the mosaics, and use a straight edge to press them in line with the field tiles.
    That's one method, but everybody has their favourite way of working.
     
  11. Homer

    Homer New to TilersForums.co.uk

    Location:
    Leeds
    Informative replies, thanks guys.
     
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