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Q

qizmaster

Hi..im new to the forum and dont know whether this one has been covered previously...cant find it if it has or not?
Im about to try and finish the top of the tiles in my bathroom(4 foot high) with a dado rail tile(20cm x 5cm).
My question is...how do you miter cut these bow shaped little suckers when your mitering them for the inside and outside corner angles?
They are white gloss too! and i am really worried about chipping the finish..
Any suggestions would be very welcome?:huh2:
 
D

Droopy

For oustide corners, you really need a wet saw with a tilting table to mitre them.
For inside corners, I find it best to do a coping joint, and not a mitre.
 
R

robbo

First of all welcome to the forum, you might like to introduce yourself to everyone in the new members area also.:thumbsup:

You will have to wet cut these tiles, and to prevent chipping make sure you have a good blade when cutting...
 
L

lendini

i kinda learned how to mitre join these dado tiles on my course ,still not easy having to roll the border tile.iam interseted though what is a coping joint sounds like a diff way of doing them,could you show or explain thx in advance
 
Q

qizmaster

Firstly..many thanks Drew and Robbo for your return advice with this one!
I must confess tho' that i too like Lendini have not quite understood the difference between the wet saw for the outside mitres and the 'coping joint'?:huh2:
Surely a single cut on one tile should produce both an outside corner and an inside joint?..Or am i getting even more confused?:huh2:
 
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andy-p

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the coping joint is where you scribe the profile of the dado and cut out the shape for internal corners, joiners use it when fitting skirtings...i use my grinder to cut out the shape....:thumbsup:
 
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D

Droopy

the coping joint is where you scribe the profile of the dado and cut out the shape for internal corners, joiners use it when fitting skirtings...i use my grinder to cut out the shape....:thumbsup:
spot on Andy.

I use it becaue I think it gives a much neater finish when the inside corner is not dead on 90*, which can be quite often.
 
D

DHTiling

You will get a better finish 9 times out of 10 with an internal scribe than an internal mitre......

If you turn the dado upside down and mitre a 45dg cut through the face then turn it back over , it gives you the pefect profile to scribe to.......:)....
 
D

Droopy

You will get a better finish 9 times out of 10 with an internal scribe than an internal mitre......

If you turn the dado upside down and mitre a 45dg cut through the face then turn it back over , it gives you the pefect profile to scribe to.......:)....
exactly how i do it too:thumbsup:
 
Q

qizmaster

Gentlemen!..Thank you dearly for all your very constructive advice with this..
Will a Dremmel grinding attachment do you think?
 
O

oldgit

one thing you need to remember when doing an external mitres is your field tiles wont match your borders if you have started with a whole tile on the external edge.
you have to mitre the border before you know where the field tiles can start.
 
D

DHTiling

The joints on Dado tiles don't have to match up with the field tiles all the time..it still looks ok with a offset joint.....
 
O

oldgit

The joints on Dado tiles don't have to match up with the field tiles all the time..it still looks ok with a offset joint.....
true but if the rest of the room match it can look odd if the exs dont.
talking the customer into brickbond borders will help with this problem i also think borders look better this way.
 
W

White Room

Over the years I,ve seen on bigger sites where they don,t mitre just run into the corner trim. The reason being is the public could catch scratch thereselfs on the mitres, perhaps when leaving a pub toilet and falling against the wall cutting theirselves or rip clothing and claim for damages. Sounds silly but that is what happens
 
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