Discuss Jakoboard thicknesses in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

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Advice please as I am starting a house refurb and working out the floor level for joists, as the bathroom is upstairs I am going to lay the floor in the style of a wetroom, sloping slightly to one corner.

What is the best makeup of the floor from the joists up, flooring grade chipbord overlaid with ply then Jakoboard or is that overkill and a 22mm ply and jakoboard adequate?

Also I see that Jakoboard is available from 6 to 50mm are different thicknesses required for the floor/walls?
 
W

Waluigi

I know these boards seem to be the latest recommendation on here but has anyone actually fitted them? I’ve not done a huge amount of research into them but they seem to come in 600mm x 1200mm sheets. Do you simply tile straight on top? Surely a crack membrane needs to go on.
 
W

Waluigi

Just read this about the GIFA floor:-

ideal for stone floors laid without the need for an additional de-bonding layer.
 
W

Waluigi

I take it you glue the joints?

What about supporting joints at 90 degrees to the joists? It’s got to be incredibly strong. Would be a struggle to fit together if the joists are uneven.

I’d like to see this system demonstrated somewhere.
 
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Why not use the likes of
Knauf GIFAfloor | Gypsum Raised Flooring System - Knauf - https://www.knauf.co.uk/product-range-overview/flooring/knauf-gifafloor
Right onto joists level and install Wetroom tray that already has the required runs

Thanks for the link, main reason is it's what my local merchant stocks, they have a trade night coming up in a few weeks so I will have a chat to the CTD rep and pick his brains.

The reason I said wetroom style is that it will be a traditional bathroom, this is a failsafe to help prevent damage in the case of a tenant leaving a bath running or a burst pipe, it is not a wetroom in the traditional sense, hence not needing a tray etc

Most terraced houses have a downstairs bathroom and I normally incorporate the same into the screed with a very gentle fall.
 
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Well interestingly or not, judging by the number of responses I got to the initial post, went to a trade night and spoke to the local rep who supplies the stuff and couldn't get a direct answer and was referred to their literature to make my own decision!

An experienced tiler who works closely with a tile manufacturer and the technical rep from an adhesive company both said that they would use flooring grade chipboard a decoupling mat and tile as normal and for my purposes it would be fine, in the case of a wetroom they recommended tanking the floor/walls as usual.

Hope this is of use to someone else who may be considering it, as others have said the principle of using cement boards as a flooring directly sounds good, but seems not to be a common method and I am not sure why?
 
W

Waluigi

This has been brought up recently. I’m all for trying new methods but I still don’t fully trust a cement board directly onto joists and then tiled straight on top. I await for my concerns to be dismissed.

Perhaps some feedback from NMP, Knauf or even Hardiebacker as to why their board (HB) is no longer sold in the UK.

Years ago I remember speaking to Bal technical as I was faced with tiling a 25mm ply floor ( the good old ply days) and Bal said it still needs over boarding or an elastomeric adhesive should be used (fastflex)
 
H

hmtiling

This has been brought up recently. I’m all for trying new methods but I still don’t fully trust a cement board directly onto joists and then tiled straight on top. I await for my concerns to be dismissed.

Perhaps some feedback from NMP, Knauf or even Hardiebacker as to why their board (HB) is no longer sold in the UK.

Years ago I remember speaking to Bal technical as I was faced with tiling a 25mm ply floor ( the good old ply days) and Bal said it still needs over boarding or an elastomeric adhesive should be used (fastflex)
I was told by hardie they no longer sell the 22mm here because it is produced in Australia and demand isn't high enough to make it economical
 

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