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dot and dab

Discuss dot and dab in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

P

pjtiler

Maybe it is because modern houses are built using moisture sensitive materials like plasterboard now. Back in the old days the were brick/block/concrete, neither were showers very popular then. Certainly not power showers.

aye thats one of the reasons no doubt although back in them days i didn't work on houses

serrated trowels not being invented could have something to do with it would,nt you say
 
G

Grace'sDad

I just finished taking tiles off an old wetroom last week. They had been stuck onto the original 1953 tiles which were impossible to remove! approx 3/4" thick at 4" square - no grout lines and dot & dabbed onto the bricks.

The homeowner was talking with his neighbour, an old man in his late 80's who actually tiled the bathrooms in all three bungalows in 1953. Laughing his head off listening to me struggling to get them off! :lol:

He said they just mixed sand and cement, stuck a blob on the wall and dipped each tile into a bucket of water before sticking onto the blob and pushing level.

Maybe not the BS technique, but they weren't half stuck solid!
 
G

grumpygrouter

I just finished taking tiles off an old wetroom last week. They had been stuck onto the original 1953 tiles which were impossible to remove! approx 3/4" thick at 4" square - no grout lines and dot & dabbed onto the bricks.

The homeowner was talking with his neighbour, an old man in his late 80's who actually tiled the bathrooms in all three bungalows in 1953. Laughing his head off listening to me struggling to get them off! :lol:

He said they just mixed sand and cement, stuck a blob on the wall and dipped each tile into a bucket of water before sticking onto the blob and pushing level.

Maybe not the BS technique, but they weren't half stuck solid!
Fantastic. Couldn't be easier really. Does it work on plasterboard?:grin:
 
G

grumpygrouter

Could someone please tell what are the problems and pitfalls of spot fixing.
Besides not complying with british standards, if it was on a floor, you would be left with voids under the tile which gives you very weak areas of the floor. This gives rise to much greater prospect of tiles breaking if you drop something or someone walks on it in stillettos.

On a wall, if you are in a wet area you have much greater potential for failure of the installation as water can get behind the tiles much much easier and possibly damage the substrate.

In wet areas you really need 100% coverage. Normal dry areas BS states at least 50% coverage but I always strive for at least 90%.
 
R

Rab78

I recently finished tiling a bathrrom, brick effect ceramic tiles, had to use dot n dab to get flat results. I used dunlop set fast plus dotting 4cubic cm 2 inch apart, this would ensure good adherence but skim the backs of the tile to help resist water penetration, you could also skim the walls all the same. I will grout with brilliant white fix-n-grout and pack in well to give support to the corners of each tile.

I rarely use dot n dab, its not good to use this technique with pre-mixed adhesives as its designed to stay wet and fresh at greater thicknesses. In fact avoid pre-mixed adhesive altogether I say, and keep that for kitchens as many ppl nowaday have showers on their baths. I know not to dot-n-dab floors.

Make up your own minds about what technique suits you as a tiler, albeit it depends on the job, but bring with that a better sense of professionalism when doing so.
 
B

Branty

I recently finished tiling a bathrrom, brick effect ceramic tiles, had to use dot n dab to get flat results. I used dunlop set fast plus dotting 4cubic cm 2 inch apart, this would ensure good adherence but skim the backs of the tile to help resist water penetration, you could also skim the walls all the same. I will grout with brilliant white fix-n-grout and pack in well to give support to the corners of each tile.

I rarely use dot n dab, its not good to use this technique with pre-mixed adhesives as its designed to stay wet and fresh at greater thicknesses. In fact avoid pre-mixed adhesive altogether I say, and keep that for kitchens as many ppl nowaday have showers on their baths. I know not to dot-n-dab floors.

Make up your own minds about what technique suits you as a tiler, albeit it depends on the job, but bring with that a better sense of professionalism when doing so.
Paisley, Dot and Dab, Dunlop. Could be one for you James.
 
T

The D

deanotile-albums-my-pics-picture952-dscf0066.jpg
Could someone please tell what are the problems and pitfalls of spot fixing.
deanotile-albums-my-pics-picture950-dscf0098.jpg

deanotile-albums-my-pics-picture948-dscf0100.jpg

deanotile-albums-my-pics-picture951-dscf0096.jpg

deanotile-albums-my-pics-picture949-dscf0099.jpg

These tiles were spot fixed two years ago and look at the damage in that short time.
There seems to be some confusion on the dot and dab debate. The old method of fixing tiles in sand and cement is not dot and dab.
This is solid bed. Yes you put a dot of sand and cement on the wall but the tiles were taped back into the blob creating pretty much a solid bed. This was don on solid walls and the reason it is not don now is the backgrounds have changed.
The spot fix method (five spots on the back of the tile) was used in the sixties when the tub adhesives were first being developed although there may still be some jobs that are still on the wall from the sixties using this method for every one that is still up there are one hundred that have fallen off. The adhesive manufacturers do not approve this method and now one with any credibility approves it.
In my humble opinion the odd spot of extra adhesive to compensate for the incompetence of the plasterer is the maximum you should be doing.
:thumbsup:
 
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