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H

hmtiling

I personally don't agree that it's a waste of time & money? Okay, Hardiebacker not waterproof but its moisture resistant not like plasterboard which soaks up moisture like a sponge & after time so does the moisture resistant plasterboard. Also, I've stated on more than one occasion I trust Hardiebacker & this is a forum isn't it
Unfortunately you're wrong. Terrible practice
 
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On what am I wrong on that hardiebacker moisture resistant or plasterboard soaks up water or over time moisture resistant plasterboard breaks down & why is it a terrible practice
 
O

One Day

On a floor?

I have to confess to boarding 3 floors today with 6mm hardibacker.
But these were small dry floors.
Given a choice though, I prefer to overboard with 10mm delta/wedi/marmox etc and tape joints in a wet area.
No cement board in wet areas for me.

I read a post on a US site last week promoting the use of HB in steamroom construction! o_Oo_Oo_O
 
O

One Day

On what am I wrong on that hardiebacker moisture resistant or plasterboard soaks up water or over time moisture resistant plasterboard breaks down & why is it a terrible practice

I think "terrible practise" is a bit harsh.
Just that over time, we've found more effective, fully waterproof alternatives.
Taping and sealing the joints on cement board is useless really as they soak up any water and pass it through.
Sure, they don't break down and tiles and stone stay stuck (usually), but I've seen rotten studwork and boards and joists - all thanks to Hardibacker.
 
O

Old Mod

I personally don't agree that it's a waste of time & money? . Also, I've stated on more than one occasion I trust Hardiebacker & this is a forum isn't it

Ok, so as you have stated this is a forum isn’t it?
And of course you’re entitled to your own opinion, so with that notwithstanding do I not have the right to ask questions?
If you knew something I didn’t, I wanted to learn from you, hence the question.
I also believe I asked the question in a very polite way, so I’m puzzled by what feels like an aggressive response.
And you may well have stated more than once that you trust HB, but had you even considered the fact that I personally may not have actually read that?
Because believe it or not, I haven’t!
As a professional, you have the right to do things in your own way, i was just curious as to the theory behind it, nothing more.
 
H

hmtiling

I think "terrible practise" is a bit harsh.
Just that over time, we've found more effective, fully waterproof alternatives.
Taping and sealing the joints on cement board is useless really as they soak up any water and pass it through.
Sure, they don't break down and tiles and stone stay stuck (usually), but I've seen rotten studwork and boards and joists - all thanks to Hardibacker.
A tad harsh maybe. Screwing only of hardie and tanking joints alone certainly isn't best practice. It's invalidating the hardie warranty and wasting money on wpc
 
O

One Day

A tad harsh maybe. Screwing only of hardie and tanking joints alone certainly isn't best practice. It's invalidating the hardie warranty and wasting money on wpc

I'm just trying to be all nice and fluffy

tenor.gif
 
J

James M

As stated this is not a wet room but ideally I'm looking to limit risk of water penetration and lifting of tiles etc.

Would it be an idea to lay the hardibacker on adhesive and screw through to joists. Top off the hardibacker with a waterproof self leveller i.e Sika 20 to act as a WPM which can be tiled to? Im not sure if this would be required to be flexible If anyone can advise?

I'm planning on using a product called Betec Flex to tank the walls prior to tiling but this is brush applied.
 

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