S
sharpfamily
i'm tiling (500*500 tiles) over floor grade chipboard using bal single part flexible. do i need to apply a primer, if so why, and which primer?
thanks
thanks
Discuss tiling over floor grade chipboard in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)
Chipboard itself is quite an unstable material for tiling onto. Adhesive manufacturers recommend overlaying with plywood for 2 reason, 1. To impart more stiffness to suspended floors to reduce deflaction as much as possible and 2. if chipboard does get wet, it can "blow" i.e it can swell up and push off the tiles.thanks for the advice. there's a bit more info below. I'd be grateful for some more advice as I don't want the tiles to crack! and I've already got the BAL single part flexible adhesive.
The chipboard sheets are glued along their halving joints and nailed down on to battens @ 14" centers (with insulation between) over a damp proofed solid concrete base. ( new construction 1991).
the floor is very solid and there's no sign off any movements or squeaks. There is definitely no movement between the joints in the chipboard.
why is an additional layer of ply wood necessary?
thanks
thanks again for taking the time to give me all the info.
I'm now thinking that my chipboard is the moisture protected flooring grade and it's over a concrete base (with damp proof membrane under). The floor is bone dry and the room is a lounge/dining area & 17years old. So movement due to moisture shouldn't be a problem. The temperature range/thermal movement hopefully shouldn't be a problem as the room is nearly always occupied and is very well insulated.
Gravity loads/movement are not a problem as the floor is solid & I'll put in lots of extra screws as you suggested.
So I'm going to take a chance and use the BAL single part flexible - I've already got the 10 bags of this and as you say the BAL 2 part is very expensive and messy. If it goes wrong....I've only myself to blame!
thanks again.
We have tried to give you advise based on combined dozens of years of experience and tried to explain what problems you are going to have. You have chosen to ignore what has been suggested sadly.thanks to all contributors.
I can't understand a mechanism that will cause the tiles to crack.
- as regards gravity - the floor is solid and vibration proof
- temp - tiling at summer temps, so any differential thermal contraction will only occur over an individual tile, ie given that the grout's tensile strength is weaker that the tile. Thermal expansion and possibility of the tiles buckling not an issue given summer temps.
- moisture. the floor is bone dry, and any small expansion in the chipboard would only have affect across one tile width, and there should be sufficient flexibility in the bal spf to cope with that.
hence I'm going to proceed with the bal spf. I'll be sure to let you know if the tiles crack within the year.
Hello, I am a Product Support Technician for BAL. Unfortunately for you, everything the boys have said is true. If you will not seek the advice of the professionals, or a technical representative of the company who makes the adhesive you are going to install incorrectly, (and if money is the biggest issue) I would ask to be refunded the tiles and adhesive and put a cushionfloor down that looks like tiles. What was the reason for seeking advice if you are not prepared to heed it ? I also think de-bonding of the tiles will occur before 12 months is out......I hope I am wrong !thanks to all contributors.
I can't understand a mechanism that will cause the tiles to crack.
- as regards gravity - the floor is solid and vibration proof
- temp - tiling at summer temps, so any differential thermal contraction will only occur over an individual tile, ie given that the grout's tensile strength is weaker that the tile. Thermal expansion and possibility of the tiles buckling not an issue given summer temps.
- moisture. the floor is bone dry, and any small expansion in the chipboard would only have affect across one tile width, and there should be sufficient flexibility in the bal spf to cope with that.
hence I'm going to proceed with the bal spf. I'll be sure to let you know if the tiles crack within the year.
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