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Hi everyone, I am still at the early stages of hopefully a long career in tiling and am always keen to make sure I am doing a good job. I have been reading the horror stories of PVA and to use primer just to help clear it up a little for me which surfaces do most of you prime and which are fine with just the adhesive. many thanks I have picked up so much just reading through all your advice.:thumbsup:
 
M

mc497

Hi george792,
You will probably get lots of answers on this one, as there are loads of different primers and stuff out there on the market.
I would say generally speaking you would need to prime wooden floors(eg ply overlay), new plasterwork, and I always prime old dusty concrete floors.
hope your prepared for a list of replies as long as your arm...!
Classic type of forum question this one.
 
G

Gazzer

By accessing the adhesive manufacturers website you will usually find all your answers . Some of them differ and yo should always follow their instructions.
 
B

brian c

IF IN DOUBT PRIME IT OUT -thats a good rule of thumb. I generally prime everything including plasterboard as too slow the drying out procedure.This is what i do and not everyone will agree but it works for me.
 
D

Daz

I also follow Brian's rule of thumb!
I prime pretty much everything if I'm using a cement based addy. If using tubbed (very infrequently) I refer to manufacturers instructions.
 
E

enduro

Hi everyone, I am still at the early stages of hopefully a long career in tiling and am always keen to make sure I am doing a good job. I have been reading the horror stories of PVA and to use primer just to help clear it up a little for me which surfaces do most of you prime and which are fine with just the adhesive. many thanks I have picked up so much just reading through all your advice.:thumbsup:
George read my post yesterday titled priming walls, once you read that you will prime everything :thumbsup:
 
S

sWe

Some adhesives are not supposed to be used together with primers, because they need the substrate to absorb moisture in order to dry and cure properly.

I'd rather say "if in doubt, RTFM". That's the safest and most professional approach IMHO.
Don't forget, that if you use materials in ways the manufacturer didn't intend, you're the liably party if the materials don't perform as intended. If you on the other hand use them according to specification, the manufacturer is liable if the materials don't perform as intended.
 
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R

robbo

Example....

BAL Prime APD
prime_apd.jpg
A modified acrylic polymer dispersion for use as a primer for a variety of backgrounds/bases prior to fixing ceramic tiles, mosaics and natural stone and prior to the application of levelling compound and the BAL WP1 TANKING SYSTEM. BAL PRIME APD isolates products containing calcium sulphate such as gypsum plaster and anhydrite screeds from cement-based adhesives, thus minimising the risk of reaction between the two materials.

Also suitable for use on cement:sand rendering, blockwork, plasterboard, cement:sand screeds and timber. It also provides surface strength to friable surfaces and reduces the porosity of porous backgrounds/bases, thus preventing the formation of air bubbles and prolonging the flow time with levelling compounds and extending the open time of tile adhesives. The primer is blue in colour to help ensure that a complete and even coating is obtained.




If in doubt you can always check the relevant website out too....
 
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P

Perry

Some adhesives are not supposed to be used together with primers, because they need the substrate to absorb moisture in order to dry and cure properly.

I'd rather say "if in doubt, RTFM". That's the safest and most professional approach IMHO.
Don't forget, that if you use materials in ways the manufacturer didn't intend, you're the liably party if the materials don't perform as intended. If you on the other hand use them according to specification, the manufacturer is liable if the materials don't perform as intended.
this is your answer boys :yes:
 

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