I'm embarking on tiling a kitchen, wall-to-wall (under washing machine etc). most of the floor is concrete/screed, but there's a 2" overlap onto both 18mm ply, and also an old hearth which is not connected to concrete slab. kitchen install is in 10 days time..
there was a failed attempt to level/flat the floor previously, some parts took well over a week to dry. some small patches still not dry, but the builder is saying it's ok - pictured. the builder said it wasn't a problem.
the plan was to:
* batten off the area that will be tiled (13m2)
* pour SLC to bring flat and level - this will be a range of 2 to 12mm thickness using mapei 3240
* then uncoupling membrane (ditra or durabase mat) - using 4mm V notch trowel
* tile 300x600x9mm - 10mm square notch trowel (at this point, fine adjustment to get the desired flush fit), use the screw levelling spacers to help with finish
to match the adjoining wood floor it will need to reach 19mm
the rationale for the uncoupling was two fold:
1. the subfloor has some moisture in it which doesn't seem to go away, so it could protect the tile adhesive from that
2. there is about 2 inches overlap on to ply substrate, and another section of concrete hearth which isn't attached to the rest of the floor concrete
perhaps it's overkill, but thought that it's a little extra cost/effort vs. more SLC for most reliable possible finish.
my dad is willing to travel to miles to help us with this, and has some experience tiling, but we're not seasoned professionals and hope for a little confidence booster/tips
just wondering if the plan is completely bonkers or any obvious "stop don't do that"!
there was a failed attempt to level/flat the floor previously, some parts took well over a week to dry. some small patches still not dry, but the builder is saying it's ok - pictured. the builder said it wasn't a problem.
the plan was to:
* batten off the area that will be tiled (13m2)
* pour SLC to bring flat and level - this will be a range of 2 to 12mm thickness using mapei 3240
* then uncoupling membrane (ditra or durabase mat) - using 4mm V notch trowel
* tile 300x600x9mm - 10mm square notch trowel (at this point, fine adjustment to get the desired flush fit), use the screw levelling spacers to help with finish
to match the adjoining wood floor it will need to reach 19mm
the rationale for the uncoupling was two fold:
1. the subfloor has some moisture in it which doesn't seem to go away, so it could protect the tile adhesive from that
2. there is about 2 inches overlap on to ply substrate, and another section of concrete hearth which isn't attached to the rest of the floor concrete
perhaps it's overkill, but thought that it's a little extra cost/effort vs. more SLC for most reliable possible finish.
my dad is willing to travel to miles to help us with this, and has some experience tiling, but we're not seasoned professionals and hope for a little confidence booster/tips
just wondering if the plan is completely bonkers or any obvious "stop don't do that"!
