Setting Out...again

[p4ulo]

I've done exactly that once before and it looked really good - obviously not ideal but was definitely the best compromise. Just don't think it would look good doing that with metros (being bevel edged and all)

True @macten , I've got XL metro style flat faced tiles to do it with so hopefully it will work....
Don't see why it wouldn't work with the metros with bevel edge, maybe do a trial with her and the different options and see where she lands.....?

 

[Flintstone]

I would never start with a cut on a work top. I would build the sill up as much as possible. I wouldn't start chopping it off

 

[Diggy]

Raise the cill imho. Usually plenty of room , especially if you can see the back edge of the window board.

Diggy

 

[macten]

Raise the cill imho. Usually plenty of room , especially if you can see the back edge of the window board.

Diggy

There's enough frame on show to put a piece of plasterboard on - so can only raise it about 13mm - this is still going to leave a slithery cut.

 

[WetSaw]

a slithery cut.

I had to read that twice, I thought you were describing a politician...

 

[Time's Ran Out]

True John, but I believe pdc's suggestion was on the basis of there being a wooden sill in place and so didn't require tiling - not tile over a wooden sill.
I've let the customer know about compromise if she wants that size tile. I know for a fact she won't go down the extra expense of me taking a course of bricks out and to be honest I wouldn't want to do that - surely I'd also have to remove the row of outer skin bricks the windows are sat on?
From my emails with her I think she got the impression that small cuts would be a nightmare for me to cut and fix and I've explained that it's no hassle for me but just won't look as nice. Up to her at the end of the day

No, he (pdc) suggested cutting the front of the wooden cill off!
With the cavity it doesn't affect the outer course of bricks and although every job is unique it's something I've often done at no extra charge to overcome the exact issue you are having.
You are possibly looking at half an hours work, some fast set adhesive and a plasterboard. This will provide the perfect finish, a happy customer, and a problem solved - and be as quick as trying to cut the slithers you will have otherwise.

 

[J Sid]

Don't cut the cill nose off, the wood will take moisture from the adhesive and swell, and your tiles will lift, I can't believe its be suggested. If i read it wrong I'm sorry, if not b..... h... Remove the still completely and build up as needed to required height.

 

[WetSaw]

I wasn't suggesting tiling over a wooden cill but fitting a deeper piece of wood to the front edge to "fill" the gap, which if I've read the first post correctly,is around 10mm. If the cill is painted white you won't notice once it's been painted.

 

[WetSaw]

No, he (pdc) suggested cutting the front of the wooden cill off!

What are the sills made of? Painted or not? If painted wood could you possibly chop the nose off and fix a deeper bullnose?

 

[Time's Ran Out]

There I got the cutting of the bullnose off right - what more do people want?