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Screws needed to screw 25mm wbp plywood into joists

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A

aled

Hi,
I am removing floorboards in my bathroom and replacing them with 25mm wbp plywood which i will be tiling on. I know I need to screw the plywood down every 150mm with countersunk screws. What screws would you advise I use? As I will be screwing into the joists I am not sure what length screws I need. I have had a look at the Screwfix website and there are so many different types of screws that to me look exactly the same!! Any advice would be great.

Thanks in advance
 
W

Wood's better

The old guideline is 2 and a half the size of the thickness of material. Therefore, a 25mm plywood floor should have a 60mm (approx) screw.

I use 4.5 x 60mm spax flooring screws. They are not full thread as fully threaded screws often lead to a tiny separation between the joist and floor leading to squeeks. These are available from Screwfix part no 56431.

Although it says no pilot hole required I would always pilot with a 3mm drill to the full depth of the screw and a slightly shallower countersink than required (especially in hardwood ply)

Hope it helps.

Richard.
 
T

The D

The old guideline is 2 and a half the size of the thickness of material. Therefore, a 25mm plywood floor should have a 60mm (approx) screw.
I use 4.5 x 60mm spax flooring screws. They are not full thread as fully threaded screws often lead to a tiny separation between the joist and floor leading to squeeks. These are available from Screwfix part no 56431.
Although it says no pilot hole required I would always pilot with a 3mm drill to the full depth of the screw and a slightly shallower countersink than required (especially in hardwood ply)
Hope it helps.
Richard.
as long as we are talking guidelines
bs
BS5385
The use of sheets and boards that are subject to movement from changes in moisture content, e.g. wood-based materials such as plywood, chipboard, wood particle boards, etc. should be avoided if at all possible. If such boards have to be used they should be restricted to small areas and tiles should not bridge joints between boards. It is good practice to seal all exposed edges and the backs, but not the faces, of such boards with a suitable sealer to prevent distortion by atmospheric humidity changes. Care should be taken to ensure such boards are not installed in a condition where their moisture content is higher than the ambient equilibrium moisture content once the tiled installation is in use. Failure to observe this can lead to subsequent warping and distortion of the boards with consequent cracking and delamination of the tiling.
so you may want to consider the use of a tile backer board or an uncoupling membrane.
 
A

Aston

you need 60mm screws on 25mm ply. they need to have some decent bite into the joists.
the screws should be corrosion resistant too..

galvanised screws are not seen as a good option anymore due to the fact that the zinc can break down..the whole building industry changed its format on galvanised materials from about 1990.. angle beads, strap hangers, fixing, screws, cavity wall ties all were recomended to be stainless steel or corrosion resistant in exterior or moisture sensitive areas.
 

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